92 honda accord stalls while driving.
 

I have a 1992 honda accord DX. My car seems to run fine for a random allotment of time 5 mins-2 hours and will then stall on me, the check engine light comes on and i cannot restart the car while the light is active. Takes approximately 20 minutes depending for the light to go off and the car to start, just for another 10 minutes of driving until it stalls again.

When the car stalls, the engine kicks back a bit, check engine/oil/battery lights come on, yet all my electrical equipment is still working. The tachometer and speedometer drop to 0 instantly as the engine completely shuts down. Also it seems as though something might be shorting out the ignition coil (which is new) because it seems fairly warm to the touch when it stalls.

I have replaced the following:
-Distributor
-Igniter
-Ignition Coil (replaced it twice under warranty because that was the best guess as to what could be causing the problem)
-Full tune-up
-Battery

I have also reset the ECU, checked all grounds and had brand new battery clamps put in place to be safe. Also, when I turn my key for the indicator lights I can hear my fuel pump working. My mechanic told me that when it stalls there is no spark, which for obvious reasons, makes my aggravation increase greatly. >.<

*As of right now I ordered a Main Relay because it is my best guess as to the last possible cause. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

You really should diagnose the problem before guessing by throwing parts at it. You likely wasted a lot of money.

Does the check engine light stay turned on when the car stalls, or does it turn on for about two seconds, then turn off? Can you get the car to stall by shaking the key when the engine is running?

Also, have you checked for the actual error codes by shorting the blue two-pin connector behind the passenger kick panel? Then you count the check engine light flashes?

I havent tried either of those, the check engine light does stay lit for a while.
I have a lack of equipment but whenever i bring it to a shop it never stalls and they are 'incapable' of diagnosing the problem if there isn't one.

How do you short out the blue two-pin connector?
I also shook the key with no response. The main thing i notice when the light comes on, is that the ignition coil will be hot to the touch. Could this be the problem? Could something be shorting it out?

The ignition components do get hot, so that may not be your problem.

You didn't answer if the check engine light turns on for ~ 2 seconds (just like when you turn the key to the II position without trying to start the car) along with the other lights.

Anyway, you should still check for code(s). Below is a link on how to get error code. All you need is a thin paperclip or a piece of wire to short the connector. Turn the key to the II position, then count the check engine light flashes. A long flash =10, short =1, so LLL S = 41.

techauto.awardspace.com/dtc.html

The check engine light stays on for 2 seconds, my fuel pump stops making noise at the same time the light shuts off. However, after the car stalls and the check engine light is on, i shut it the car all the way off and put the key back to position II with no luck; the check engine light will stay on for a long period of time and my car will refuse to turn back over.

Also, I shorted it out, got a 15. Ignition output signal code. 1 long, 5 short on the check engine. The distributor and two coils were installed new so I'm still straying from those possibilities.

The car is able to turn over and run even though I have this code. The car will run approximately one hour before it stalls, then it will not turn back over and I get the same code. Takes app. 15-30 minutes before it will turn back over.

A code 15 is for the ignition output signal. That is typically for the igniter, the wiring, or the ECU.

Since you already replaced the igniter, I would check the wiring for any damage or shoddy repairs. Also, was the igniter a Honda part?

When the car refuses to start, check that the blk/yel wire that goes one of the plugs for the distributor has 12V to body ground when the key is in the II position.

The ignotor is part of the distributor on my model which was replaced new by Honda. The only thing I can think.of is something shorting out my coil because my ecu is fine. However I am replacing the main relay first to see if that helps in a few days.

Ok so the main relay did not solve the code 15 or stalling problem. I'm going to talk to the mechanics at Honda to see if they can find if it was a faulty installation on their part.

Everything is installed correctly I switched out my ignition coil again which solved the problem and then the car stalled again while driving. Something is shorting out the coil it seems my mechanic recommended, would it help if I uploaded a video? Need fixed ASAP before AAA gets mad at me lol.

A bad coil should not cause a code 15.

Are you sure that an igniter came with the new distributor? The reason I ask is that you can order the distributor housing that comes without the igniter, cap, and rotor.

Will the car start now? Do you have a volt meter and also a 12V test light?

Took the distributor apart, had the new ignitor. I noticed when putting the distributor back together, that one of my spark plug wires (to the distributor not coil) had the copper end pushed too far into the plug. So i got some pliers and pulled it out to match the length of the other ones, have not driven the car yet since i fixed that.

Is there a possibility it was something as small as that giving me the code? maybe my engine shaking the 1 connection a little loose caused it to stall?

Also the car always turns on from a cold start, it only stalls while driving atm.

That may explain why you are going through coils.

If the spark generated by the coil could not reach the plug wire, the spark can ground through the coil and damage it.

What I do with my spark plug wires is pull the boot way back, then insert the copper part into the distributor cap. Then I push the boot up until it seats on the cap.

Wasnt the plugs apparently, is there somewhere I can find a wiring diagram? It has to be something elsewhere.

MR. JESSEB~~ I have all the same issues... Ive replaced the ignitor, and cap, and rotor... had a code 15.. I reset the ECU, and now after shorting the blue connector, my CEL will stay lit, untill I disconect the short. From what I have read from MR. PAHONDA, it is a Bad ECU. I will have a new ECU in by 4 pm today, and Ill let you guys know If it has worked for me.

So I bought 2 ecu's and neither of them have fixed my issue... CEL stays lit when service wires are bridged... Any idea what to do or check into next???

Jesseb_- Did you get your issues resolved? What was the problem??

When you jumper the SCS connector, a solid-on CEL indicates there's no stored error codes. That doesn't necessarily mean a bad ECU.

For PAHonda's thread, I suspect there was more to the story than just a solid-on CEL.

Listen very carefully to what I have to say, after two new igniters, a new distributor, ignition coil, spark plug wires. IDC how many new things you have something can still be bad. I personally replaced the igniter in my car with one from autozone, with a good coating of silicon-based heat sync gel and it has not given me a problem since. Im pretty sure error code 15 is almost always the igniter especially if its giving you that problem.

I recommend that you take it to a specialist to have the igniter installed, or if you feel comfortable self installing it, make sure the spark plugs are re-attached in the correct spots and distributor is remounted perfectly.

Thanks .. yea I heard on another forum and from a Honda tech it needs that heat synk... and not to do anything else till I do that. It will be done tonight... and we will see...

heat synk is done... car ran great for 20-30 mins... when I turned it off, I decided to try and start it back up... it did not start back up. Now Im having more issues... when I rotate the key, there is no CEL anymore at all, just gone.... im lost

When you turn the key there's no CEL... what about battery & oil warning lamps?
If NOTHING, then it's beginning to sound like a flaky ignition switch.

Yes.. battery and seat belt, and oil light are there and on, when it dies... i turn key back, and then forward to restart and the cel comes on then, along with the other three. I made a video for it in my last post, thread "90 accord ECU help".

I hope its not the ignition switch.. I dont wanna see the inside of a junkyard again.

Is there any relation from radio to ecu? When I go the car the radio was gone, wires all over, someone hooked up an after market.. but took it when they left the car... I see the radio/backup fuse has something to do with the ecu resetting..? I installed a new factory radio out from the yard, and its acting weird.. turns on.. but cuts of randomly...

Im on my way out to it now.. to start it up, see how long I can keep it running... when it cuts, im gonna check for codes again.. and If nothing Im gonna pull the main relay and check for busted soders.

Once again I appreciate all the help guys.. I cannot wait to pimp this accord all over town!

Not much in common between radio & ECU. Only share the backup power to maintain their memory when the car's turned off.

Radio is powered by accessory circuit through the ignition switch.
ECU is powered by main relay which is switched on by ignition circuit thru switch.

If it were a bad ignition switch, the oil & alternator lamps would go out too.

Ok.. thanks for info this may help... my radio power wire has burnt/fried completely through the main wire harness... its burnt behind radio, and burnt under dash, so ill guess its burnt all the way to ignition switch. Prolly burning any wires near it... I need to find where/whatever the power source is to radio power wire and clip it off completely. Don't want power running through a bare wire... in middle of harness...

My main relay has been manually grounded, someone sliced the ground, and added another ground to it... somehow the main relay ground is no longer working... Need to find the source of that problem...

Yeah, I saw that in your other thread after posting this one. Someone already said it, but with butchered wiring like that your problem could be almost anywhere.

I was gonna say you've got like 3 different threads going, so it's confusing. At least to me. I read one of the threads & doesn't dawn on me right away that you're the same guy from the other thread. But then one single thread would be 8-pages long... ya can't win.

Yea, lol the problem is 21 yo car that nobody took care of... im enjoying trying to fix it, and when its done, ill love it even more.

If I have to pull a wire harness, out of a junkyard, I will... Ive spotted 2 or 3 nice cars already.

Ill start with this radio wire, here in 10 mins... pop ignition, trace wire to it, and clip it. Dont want it sending power through that wire anymore...

Yea im in a couple threads, with similar issues, trying to figuire it out. Yall have been great though I must say!

I hope to post some good news later, like SHES FIXED! haha Maybe Ill win a small victory with my lil beater..!

fixed ground issue... and steroe is disconected with no fuse in, no power thru busted wire...

CEL is blinking again, and it gave me a code 15 again... Ive already done coil, cap and rotor... need a voltmeter now to test voltage, and that would point to...? the ignition switch? or ignition control module, the other thing in distributor?

Code 15 is "ignition output signal" meaning the signal from the ECU telling the ignitor to fire the coil. Often that's either open wiring from ECU out to distributor, or a bad ignitor. Sometimes AutoZone-type places can test Honda ignitors.

Low and behold, the blue bandit is ON THE ROAD!! I got a scrap yard ICM, screwed her in... and she is workin great fellas!!

THANKS to all you guys for the help!

I just test drove for over an hour, like 40 miles, and she is runnin strong. Confidence is back jack!!! yet she is 21 years old, im sure ill be back haha