I have a 1992 honda accord DX. My car seems to run fine for a random allotment of time 5 mins-2 hours and will then stall on me, the check engine light comes on and i cannot restart the car while the light is active. Takes approximately 20 minutes depending for the light to go off and the car to start, just for another 10 minutes of driving until it stalls again.

When the car stalls, the engine kicks back a bit, check engine/oil/battery lights come on, yet all my electrical equipment is still working. The tachometer and speedometer drop to 0 instantly as the engine completely shuts down. Also it seems as though something might be shorting out the ignition coil (which is new) because it seems fairly warm to the touch when it stalls.

I have replaced the following:
-Distributor
-Igniter
-Ignition Coil (replaced it twice under warranty because that was the best guess as to what could be causing the problem)
-Full tune-up
-Battery

I have also reset the ECU, checked all grounds and had brand new battery clamps put in place to be safe. Also, when I turn my key for the indicator lights I can hear my fuel pump working. My mechanic told me that when it stalls there is no spark, which for obvious reasons, makes my aggravation increase greatly. >.<

*As of right now I ordered a Main Relay because it is my best guess as to the last possible cause. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You really should diagnose the problem before guessing by throwing parts at it. You likely wasted a lot of money.

Does the check engine light stay turned on when the car stalls, or does it turn on for about two seconds, then turn off? Can you get the car to stall by shaking the key when the engine is running?

Also, have you checked for the actual error codes by shorting the blue two-pin connector behind the passenger kick panel? Then you count the check engine light flashes?

 

I havent tried either of those, the check engine light does stay lit for a while.
I have a lack of equipment but whenever i bring it to a shop it never stalls and they are 'incapable' of diagnosing the problem if there isn't one.

 

How do you short out the blue two-pin connector?
I also shook the key with no response. The main thing i notice when the light comes on, is that the ignition coil will be hot to the touch. Could this be the problem? Could something be shorting it out?

 

The ignition components do get hot, so that may not be your problem.

You didn't answer if the check engine light turns on for ~ 2 seconds (just like when you turn the key to the II position without trying to start the car) along with the other lights.

Anyway, you should still check for code(s). Below is a link on how to get error code. All you need is a thin paperclip or a piece of wire to short the connector. Turn the key to the II position, then count the check engine light flashes. A long flash =10, short =1, so LLL S = 41.

techauto.awardspace.com/dtc.html

 

The check engine light stays on for 2 seconds, my fuel pump stops making noise at the same time the light shuts off. However, after the car stalls and the check engine light is on, i shut it the car all the way off and put the key back to position II with no luck; the check engine light will stay on for a long period of time and my car will refuse to turn back over.

Also, I shorted it out, got a 15. Ignition output signal code. 1 long, 5 short on the check engine. The distributor and two coils were installed new so I'm still straying from those possibilities.

The car is able to turn over and run even though I have this code. The car will run approximately one hour before it stalls, then it will not turn back over and I get the same code. Takes app. 15-30 minutes before it will turn back over.

 

A code 15 is for the ignition output signal. That is typically for the igniter, the wiring, or the ECU.

Since you already replaced the igniter, I would check the wiring for any damage or shoddy repairs. Also, was the igniter a Honda part?

When the car refuses to start, check that the blk/yel wire that goes one of the plugs for the distributor has 12V to body ground when the key is in the II position.

 

The ignotor is part of the distributor on my model which was replaced new by Honda. The only thing I can think.of is something shorting out my coil because my ecu is fine. However I am replacing the main relay first to see if that helps in a few days.

 

Ok so the main relay did not solve the code 15 or stalling problem. I'm going to talk to the mechanics at Honda to see if they can find if it was a faulty installation on their part.

 

Everything is installed correctly I switched out my ignition coil again which solved the problem and then the car stalled again while driving. Something is shorting out the coil it seems my mechanic recommended, would it help if I uploaded a video? Need fixed ASAP before AAA gets mad at me lol.