Hello, new to the site, although since I purchased my car I have trolled and used the search bar to try and locate my answers. I haven't found a similiar situation, here is mine. I bought a 93 accord wagon with the assumption the transmission was bad. Once I started researching, it seems 90 percent of the time it is something else other than the transmission. So before throwing my limited funds toward the car I wanted some professional opinions. When I put it in reverse it makes a loud grinding type noise, similiar to a stripped gear or something. It will not move, if I shift from reverse to neutral it makes the same sounds, but you can barely hear it. If I shift to Park it stops completely. All forward gears work. The transmission does lock and I have to insert the key to free it from park, and sometimes the D4 light blinks constantly and sometimes it just stays on. Sorry it was a little long, but wanted to give all the info I could. Does anyone have any thoughts on what it could be? This is my first accord and I am unfamiliar with them, but will try to work on anything. Thanks.

 

Go to DIY forum and read procedure to extract codes. Get TCU code/s and repost for assitance. Sometimes it's electrical fault and easy repair, but not always.

good luck

 

Start with getting the codes. Fluid looks ???

Doesn't sound good but there are some "other" things going on (D4 blinking, won't shift out of Park). Also suggest a manual, check the Common DIY Threads at the top for a link to a manual, of you don't have one-also there is a thread on how to get the codes.

EDIT: it seems TX and I posted at the same time.

 

Try to get the code first, but it sounds like the reverse hub and sleeve inside of the transmission, the reverse sleeve splines could be excessively worn so the sleeve could not lock onto the spinning counter shaft shaft to have reverse, or a worn reverse servo o-ring and could not seal the hydraulic circuit for the servo to fully engage into reverse.

 

Thanks for the help, I will go the DIY section, also will pick up a manual since I don't have a clue what part is part. The fluid looks good, isn't discolored and doesn't smell burnt. Car has 150k miles. Thanks again.

 

It rained all day yesterday so I was unable to get codes, I did pick up a haynes manual, and I picked up a parts car(figured it would be cheaper). It's a complete 1990 accord that was running when parked 5 years ago when she bought a suv. I know parts could go bad sitting up, but I can always scrap it if needed to get my money back.

 

Ok, I evidently can't find the correct information and I know I must be looking right over it. I located the blue connector on the passengers floorboard that has two pins. I jumped it with a paper clip, turn the key to the ll position and I get no codes, no blinks, no anything. However, while letting it sit there and idle a while it will make the grinding noise sitting in park, it will do it a few seconds and stop, do it and stop, and at the same time the D4 light engages and disengages, pretty much with the sound. Sorry again if I am overlooking this in the DIY, but any ideas? I'm a newb to Hondas. Thanks

 

If the D4 light is blinking, you either have failed to short the service check connector (bad jumper or connector), or the TCU is faulty.

good luck

 

It has rained everyday this week, but I tried looking at it every afternoon when I got home from work. Sometimes when I jump the blue connector the D4 light stays on and never blinks(I have left in on for 2-3 min) and sometimes it never even comes on. I feel sure I have a good connection on the jump, because the check engine light will stay on as long as it is jumped. As I said, I know nothing about Hondas but what you guys have told me and what I have researched. So I guess I will start by replacing the TCU and go from there. I do have the parts car so I can play it by ear. Any other advice will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

Ok, I have my transmission sitting on the ground, the parts car has kind of fell through so I am looking for a transmission. I have located a 94 automatic that came out from behind a 2.2 also, only has 65k miles. To make this work in my 93, do I just need the torque converter and axles from the 94? Thanks for any help.