The engine was running fine last night. This morning I removed the distributor cap on my 93 Accord 2.2L FI model to inspect my ICM. The inner plastic cover was in the way, and I could not remove it or the rotor. I put the distributor cap back on and now the engine won't turn over. Cranks up a storm, but wont turn over. I noticed a little rust inside the distributor cap, but no moisture. .......??......all fuses are OK. Should I get a new distributor cap and rotor? if so, how do I get that old rotor off? Is there a set-screw on the shaft somewhere that I can't see?

 

I sold my '93 and cant remember if it has a set screw or not. The easy way to find out is just have someone crank the engine, just blip it a little, until you can see the backside of the rotor. If it does have a screw, it will then be exposed if it does not t, then you can just pull it off. Yes you should get a new cap and rotor.

 

why did you want to inspect the icm if it was running fine ? and how were you going to inspect it ? did you remove any wiring ?? did you remove plug wires and possibly reconnected them in wrong spot??

but anyway to pop out the rotor some just pry out with a screwdriver. some have a screw that needs to be removed ,, spin the distr shaft around ( crank the car slowly ) and see if there is a screw on your model

 

My son is having a random engine dies problem with his 92 accord in Hawaii, I thought I had one that I replaced in my 93, was going to swap them out and send him the newer one, since I found out the new one did not fix my issue several years ago.
Bought a new distrib cap and rotor, but the old rotor is stuck on the shaft, may have to take out the air filter box and get a slide hammer on it. But after working on it more today, the problem seems to be that there is no spark coming from the coil. Bought a new one. Still no spark from the coil. I checked all the electrical connectors in that area and they are all snug. Now what? I even opened the gas tank cap and let the pressure out. Still just cranks and cranks but won't turn over.
Forgot to mention, Check Engine light comes on when I try to start it.

 

When this happened to my old '93 it turned out to be the "ignighter". I had it brought into a shop and they right away knew what it was. I'm not saying to just replace that part, but from your description it seems that might be what it is. Some of the senior members here (deserthonda, etc.) can probably help you determine if that indeed is the problem.

 

So which way does the spark flow? I thought it was from the coil to the distributor/Ignitor Control Module. That's why I am not sure what to check next since I have already replaced the coil and I still do not have a spark going to the distributor. I did check the grey electrical connector going into the other side of the coil. on the coil (male) side of that connection, there are 4 prongs, but on the grey connector (female) side of that connection, only three of the four chambers have metal contacts in them--the fourth one is empty. I've never looked inside the connectors previously to know if there should be four sets of contacts to match up with the four prongs on the coil side of the connector. I would take it to O'reilleys to see if there are any codes, but unfortunately it is stuck in my driveway. Is there another way to get codes off of it?

 

The igniter fires the coil. You can remove the igniter and O'Reillys can test it.

 

It's easier to remove the entire distributor than to try to work on distributor enaged to the cylinder head. Three 12-mm socket size bolts hold the distributor in place. Removing the air intake duct helps access to lower rear bolt.

My 94EX has a retaining bolt/screw on the distributor rotor that must be comletely removed to allow rotor to be pulled.

An easy way to check spark is to attach an inductive timing light to one of the spark plug leads. If timing light flashes, the spark is likely good.

good luck

 

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions! I decided not to pull the entire distributor out since I am not sure about how to sync up the timing when reinstalling. I was able to get the rotor off finally, removed the ICM (found the two little screws under the connectors!) and took to O'Reillys, but they did not have the adaptor to test it. Put the ICM back in, new rotor and distributor cap. Still just cranks, does not turn over. Next step will be to yank the ICM out and find another place to get it tested. Also I will remove the back-up/radio fuse, stick the paper clip in the connector on passenger side and turn key on to get the codes to research.

 

Do the paperclip test before you pull the backup/radio fuse.