93 Accord got real upset on wet weather day after sitting
I wish I could describe the sound.. It sounded like a high pitched zipper noise , and like something inside of a bass drum slowly going to the top and then dropping suddenly (while cranking) .. I was really convinced that it had jumped time or something more serious like that
Then it was fine and I was amazed.
Then it was fine and I was amazed.
Plug(s) firing when they shouldn't. High voltage is leaking. I bet there's a carbon trace or two in the cap. WD40 isn't going to fix that. A new cap will.
Ah! That is great to know. What caused it to finally straighten out? The arcing finally dispersed the moisture or some kind of a thing like that? I just never knew that it could sound like that because of an ignition electrical issue. Good to know it's not something more serious. Will have a chance to get into it today when she gets off of work
Last edited by 93Accord2.2; Dec 21, 2011 at 03:20 PM.
Smart woman to have a Honda 
OE, there is an o-ring/gasket under the cap....saw it for ~$2 (online Honda Dealer- 30132-PT2-006-EDIT-Double check me on the PN, as I think the DX, LX,ect might have dif dist) if the new cap does not come with one.

OE, there is an o-ring/gasket under the cap....saw it for ~$2 (online Honda Dealer- 30132-PT2-006-EDIT-Double check me on the PN, as I think the DX, LX,ect might have dif dist) if the new cap does not come with one.
Last edited by poorman212; Dec 22, 2011 at 10:05 AM.
Surprisingly, whoever changed them a few years ago knew to use NGKs... they came out looking pretty good.. a very small little bit of corrosion.. I put NGK v power (the cheap $2.99 platinum) in there tonight and the car got a lot quieter!! Is that possible? I'm sure of it, because my woman said something about it and I had already noticed .. so I'm not imagining it
The car runs 1000% better now.. And sounds better when cranking.. and starts easier. Throttle response is almost instant now, there's more power and I am pretty sure the mileage will be back up from the way it's running. Will I still have issues with it starting on wet days? I think, well, if it's getting water in the cap and arcing in there anyway, better plugs can't help that .. right?
I forgot to mention that there is a tiny backfire that sounds kind of like rumbling after every shift. . It isn't bad at all. . could that be because the muffler has a 2" hole in it? Is there an easier way to fix it cheap than using sheet metal and hose clamps? No money for a muffler right now.. I do know a guy who will give me a muffler in trade for the cat .. does not having a cat upset these cars?
I have to say Hondas aren't as bad as I thought they were. They sure are reliable little bastads, for sure!! I haven't fooled around with the dist cap and everything else- though I may as well wait till the first and do cap/rotor/wires.. NGK $35 wireset be okay? Does it matter what cap/rotor I buy?
Thanks again !!!!
The car runs 1000% better now.. And sounds better when cranking.. and starts easier. Throttle response is almost instant now, there's more power and I am pretty sure the mileage will be back up from the way it's running. Will I still have issues with it starting on wet days? I think, well, if it's getting water in the cap and arcing in there anyway, better plugs can't help that .. right?
I forgot to mention that there is a tiny backfire that sounds kind of like rumbling after every shift. . It isn't bad at all. . could that be because the muffler has a 2" hole in it? Is there an easier way to fix it cheap than using sheet metal and hose clamps? No money for a muffler right now.. I do know a guy who will give me a muffler in trade for the cat .. does not having a cat upset these cars?
I have to say Hondas aren't as bad as I thought they were. They sure are reliable little bastads, for sure!! I haven't fooled around with the dist cap and everything else- though I may as well wait till the first and do cap/rotor/wires.. NGK $35 wireset be okay? Does it matter what cap/rotor I buy?
Thanks again !!!!
Last edited by 93Accord2.2; Dec 22, 2011 at 01:05 AM.
1) Correct, won't help if water is getting in there
2) could be because of the hole?
3) as a temp fix, might get some muffler putty to help seal the sheet metal to the muffler.
4) Since this is OBDI, not really. Depending on state laws is may not pass inspection.
5) I'd test the wires and replace if needed. Yes, NGK's are a good brand for these.
6) DEBATE.....I think the cap from the dealer comes WITH the o-ring, so if yours is gone, why not get that from the dealer, then heck you are there, might as well get the rotor.....
2) could be because of the hole?
3) as a temp fix, might get some muffler putty to help seal the sheet metal to the muffler.
4) Since this is OBDI, not really. Depending on state laws is may not pass inspection.
5) I'd test the wires and replace if needed. Yes, NGK's are a good brand for these.
6) DEBATE.....I think the cap from the dealer comes WITH the o-ring, so if yours is gone, why not get that from the dealer, then heck you are there, might as well get the rotor.....
Cap, rotor, and wires are maintenance items. They have to be replaced every so often, probably more so in humid climates. And it's not so much that water leaks into the distributor, rather it's water condensing from the air that causes caps and wires to short out.
1) Correct, won't help if water is getting in there
2) could be because of the hole?
3) as a temp fix, might get some muffler putty to help seal the sheet metal to the muffler.
4) Since this is OBDI, not really. Depending on state laws is may not pass inspection.
5) I'd test the wires and replace if needed. Yes, NGK's are a good brand for these.
6) DEBATE.....I think the cap from the dealer comes WITH the o-ring, so if yours is gone, why not get that from the dealer, then heck you are there, might as well get the rotor.....
2) could be because of the hole?
3) as a temp fix, might get some muffler putty to help seal the sheet metal to the muffler.
4) Since this is OBDI, not really. Depending on state laws is may not pass inspection.
5) I'd test the wires and replace if needed. Yes, NGK's are a good brand for these.
6) DEBATE.....I think the cap from the dealer comes WITH the o-ring, so if yours is gone, why not get that from the dealer, then heck you are there, might as well get the rotor.....
The good news is that we live in a state with no inspections .. One of the few good things about this area
The putty would be at either end, then? Use it in conjunction with the clamps? Sounds like a good idea.. You test wires for resistance, right? While they're hot would probably be best?If the car is running pretty great, should I worry about the EGR cleaning or the IAC cleaning or any of that??
Maybe not. The ignition system might find it easier to fire nice, new plugs vs. old, worn ones, so it won't have as much reason to find an alternate path: a carbon trace in the cap or from a leaky wire to the valve cover.
Cap, rotor, and wires are maintenance items. They have to be replaced every so often, probably more so in humid climates. And it's not so much that water leaks into the distributor, rather it's water condensing from the air that causes caps and wires to short out.
Cap, rotor, and wires are maintenance items. They have to be replaced every so often, probably more so in humid climates. And it's not so much that water leaks into the distributor, rather it's water condensing from the air that causes caps and wires to short out.
I have always wondered how cracks in the distributor or the seal cause more condensation.. I guess that if moisture doesn't exist in the air under the cap, there's no way for condensation to happen in there. That makes sense. And I am sure the new plugs are an easier path too so that makes sense


