Ok, I've got a 93 accord, 5spd, 2.2L I4, 192K

Back in Jan. I had a problem where the car stopped on the way to work - about 2 miles from home on a very cold morning. Engine just stopped - no CEL, no sputtering - just stopped like somebody turned the key. It would then crank fine, but not start. I came back a few hours later, and it started right up and I drove it home.

I kind of suspected water in the gas at that point, so I ran some dry gas through it. Also replaced the distributor cap, plug wires and plugs at the same time. Here's the thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=23022

After that it ran fine - except I was burning up plug wires. Literally.

Back in Jan. I put new ignition wires on it - Advance Auto generic brand - Xacta I think? In about April it started running like crap - missing/hesitating at low idle and getting worse pretty fast. Went from occasionally noticeable to undrivable in a few days. I barely limped it into the Advance Auto store on the way home, popped the hood and found my ignition wires in tatters!

It looks like the insulation on the wires is cracking or sliced, and sections literally look like they exploded from the inside. The first time it was the wire from the coil, and 2 of the plug wires. I got those replaced under warranty, figuring it was likely defective product or ??

So at the beginning of Aug., the same thing happened again! I had noticed some hesitation that morning. By afternoon, it was dying. Again limped it into Advance Auto - this time opted for Autolite wires. Again, the coil wire was destroyed (came apart in my hands) and the #4 plug wire as well. Nothing in the vicinity to cause mechanical damage, no sign of rodents (doesn't look like chewed wires). I kept the coil wire this time and will try to posts pics soon.

Then about a week later, it let me sit again - this time about 50 feet out of the driveway. Again, plenty of crank, but no start. Again, I came back a few hours later and it started and ran fine. A few days after that it let me sit again, about half a mile from home - same deal.

I've been really busy, and have another vehicle, so I largely let it sit until this past weekend. A few times I started it and let it run in the driveway for up to 2 hours hoping it would do it's thing again when I had time & tools to look at it. But it never did.

So this weekend I started looking at things. One of the first things I tested was the coil - since I was burning up wires, it seemed like a good place to start. My Haynes manual shows a 3 step test - two resistance checks between contacts on the input side, and one resistance test between an input contact and the high voltage output. One of the input side tests failed - read as an open circuit when the test specified something like 14K ohms. So I replaced the coil.

Drove it around the block a dozen times saturday, into town about 20 miles round trip on Sunday, then into work yesterday - 25 miles round trip + 10 miles at lunch. Starting to get some confidence back that maybe it was the coil.

Of course it wasn't - it stopped on the way to work this morning, about 2 miles out. But this time I was a little prepared - first thing I tried was popping the air cleaner cover and giving it a shot of ether to help determine if it was fuel or spark that it was missing. Got back in and cranked it and it caught and stumled along for a few seconds on the ether. Fuel problem! Then I cranked it again, and it stumbled a little more - then started! I quick got out and shut the hood, then drove it home and took the truck in to work - wasn't going to tempt fate any further.

So, if you've read this far. Any ideas what to check next?

 

When you turn the key on, listen for the fuel pump to run 2-3 seconds.
There is a small fuel pressure test port bolt on the end of the fuel rail, you could check for fuel flow.
Main Relay can be a common cause for "cranks but won't start" but rarely "stalls when running".

 

I forgot to mention that I did hang a fuel pressure gauge on it back in Jan. and tested good - about 40 PSI IIRC But of course, that was when it was running.

I wish I had an adaptor to connect the gauge to that port on the fuel rail, but I haven't found an adaptor for it. When I had the gauge on before it was through the fuel filter fitings, which was a PITA. I've heard that some have a shraeder valve on that port on the fuel rail, but mine doesn't.

I've tried listening for the fuel pump, but honestly haven't heard it. Even when it is running.

Relays are usually pretty cheap - may as well through one of those at it. Can you be more specific what I'm looking for there?
Thanks

 

The main relay is up under the dash above the cruise control, grey box; but you can only see the bottom of it where the wire connector is.
You can pry the sides of the relay case out and slip the guts out of it.
The usual problem is cracked solder joints at the relay coil connection on the circuit board.
FWIW Honda uses BSPT [British Standard Pipe Thread]
Here's a link to help you find the main relay;
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

 

Just a followup on this - I replaced the main relay, but still had intermittent problems. But again, not when/where I could could on it. Finally, on a Sat. morning about 3 weeks ago it wouldn't start at all. Discovered that there was no spark. About the only suspect left in there that I hadn't replaced was the ignitor - aka ignition control module. It tested OK according to my Haynes manual, but some googling revealed that bench tests of the ignitor itself may not be reliable, and to replace it if the tests of power to the unit were good.

So I installed a new ignitor, and it's been running fine ever since - about 500 miles so far.