My 93 Accord LX station wagon shuts down suddenly every time. All lights/power suddenly gone. Battery and alternator appear to be fine (battery doesn't run down, fuel-pedal/headlight test for alternator okay). It used to shut down a few times a week, then every day, then a few times every day... and I could turn the key and it would start again. Now, it will run for about 5 minutes and then shut down and turning the key will do not good (no spark at all) until the car has sit for an hour or so. I have spent many hours searching other posts on this site and all over the internet. I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, coil and main relay. I swapped out the ignition control module but when I noticed that it still shut down with the temporary replacement part I put back in the original one. I will note that the sheething on one of the wires to the ignition control module was broken and the wire frayed. I inspected the wire with a magnifying glass but it still seems to be okay. I did do a test to see if spark is still coming to a spark plug when turning the key after the shut down but since it was over six months ago I forgot the result... I'll go try this test again and anything else that I can imagine unless anybody else has any better ideas (:->).

 

If Alt, Check Engine, and Oil Pressure lights do not come on when engine dies, then ignition switch assembly (under the steering wheel column covers) is the culprit.

Check spark w/ a inductive pickup timing light connected to spark plug leads. No flash means no spark.

Any frayed loose wires should be reterminated.

good luck

 

Thanks, Tex.... I replaced the ignition switch today and the result is that it still shuts down. However, after it shuts down I now have lights and sounds when inserting and turning the key. I can hear the ignition and starter but it doesn't start until letting it sit for 30 minutes or so. It appears that now I am back to just my original problem of many moons ago, before the ignition switch also went bad. What I'm saying is that it appears that the orginal problem has not been solved but that the ignition switch problem which came into the picture at a later stage has been solved. So now I'm wondering if the problem is with the fuel pump, somewhere in the distributor or somewhere else in the wiring... Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

Are you maintenance items up to date like the spark plugs, distributor cap, and distributor rotor?

You will have to determine if the no start is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel.

When the car is not starting, turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds while the check engine light turns on for the bulb check. This is a faint whirling/buzzing sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, heater blower, etc.. and listen carefully.

If you have a timing light, you can quickly check for spark while someone tries to start the car. You can also pull a spark plug (or use and old one and ground the threads). Go to tegger.com and look at the no start diagnostic procedures in the fax.

 

Regarding the reference to the troubleshooting FAQ from tegger.com :
SYMPTON: Car is fully warm, stalls suddenly while driving, then won't restart unless you let cool down for a while
Honda-specific
* Ignition switch
* Igniter
* Coil
* Loose wire
Generic to all cars
* Coil
* Loose wire

Since I already swapped out the ignition switch, ignitor and the coil, this would leave, by process of elimination, the "loose wire".

With a cheap multimeter, how might one go about trying to locate a loose or broken wire?

 

Regading the fuel pump test, I have tried to listen to hear it start up but my ears are incapable of hearing it over the bells that ring when turning the key. Does anybody know how I might temporarily (or permanently!) disable the loud bell sound?

 

Regarding the fuel pump test, I eliminated the bells ringing in my ears by fastening the seatbelt before ignition. I near a brief "whirring" sound from the aft, assuming it to be the fuel pump.

 

If you're confident you're hearing the fuel pump buzz for 2-3 secs and go off (goes off w/ CEL), then you can make the assumption fuel delivery is not the problem. It could be fuel injectors, but that is less likely.

When you have a no-start condition, check the blk/yel wire at the connector to the distributor w/ keyswitch ON. You should have 12V. If not, the keyswitch assy or wiring fault is indicated.

Check the ground wire from distributor at the thermostat housing, below and behind the distributor. Trace lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Make sure this wire is clean and securely tightened.

If you have ground and 12V, this suggests that lack of spark is the problem due to a distributor fault. I know you have replaced the coil and ignitor, but bear w/ me.

If you have ground and 12V, and no spark, it could be a cracked rotor or distributor cap allowing spark to short to ground. It could be either the ignitor or coil you installed is faulty (happens). The tegger.com link has tests for coil and ignitor to confirm they are functioning.

Do these simply checks for power and ground first, and repost what you find.

good luck

 

I'll try those tests... for now I just have the simple result of a spark plug test... I connected a spare spark plug to a spark plug wire, grounded it to chassis and when the car starts I see sparks. But after a typical shutdown, I do the same but I see no sparks whatsoever.

 

Check for error codes. See how to check cel codes writeup in the DIY section.

When the car is not starting, leave the key in the II position. Check that you have 12V on the yel/blk wire that goes to both the distributor and coil.

I would try to repair the wire in the distributor, since part of the wire is exposed. Just put some electrical tape around it, so the wire does not arc to ground. An alternative is to find a distributor for your car at a salvage yard. Check out car-part.com to search local junkyards with prices.

When was the last time you replaced the distributor cap and rotor? I would use OEM parts from the dealership or online OEM sources.