I have a 1993 accord 10th anniversary 2.2 auto trans. I bought the car from a friend who said it was running fine when he parked it three years ago i got it home the fuel pump is not coming on and there is no spark so im trying to fix the spark issue first heres what ive done new coil,dist.,main relay,plugs,plug wires,dist.cap & rotor button,and change out the e.c.m no fire from plug any help would be appreciated, all fuses are good

 

Changed a lot of parts, so what testing was done to get to that point?

T-belt still there? Power getting to the fuel pump, I know you said spark first but this could be an answer to both, fuel getting to the rail/injectors.

 

Unplug the distributor. Turn the key to the II position. Use a volt meter and see if the blk/yel wire going to the distributor has 12V. Use the red volt meter lead on the blk/yel wire. The black volt meter lead should be on a good ground like a valve cover bolt.

 

i dont have a volt meter but i unplug the dist. and used a test light and turned switch on and test light came on also to the coil. how to check to see if fuel pump is getting power and how would that cause it not to have fire? t-belt is still there and is all turning when it is spinning over

 

For the fuel pump, check that the yel/blk wire at the electrical connector in the trunk near the access panel gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car.

There is a also a grounding bolt on the bottom of the thermostat housing that can cause some strange problems.

Have you checked for error codes? See the thread called How to Check CEL codes in the DIY section.

 

i have tried to get codes but all that happens is the abs light goes out,the cel stays on and the d4 light dont work cause i cant get it to come on even if i put the shifter in d4 position.

 

Sounds like you have no engine codes.

Do any of the other lights for the gear shifter turn on, P,R,N,D3,D2?

 

yeah all but the d4

 

When you turn keyswitch to On, you should hear a soft click from under dash on driver's side. This is main fuel relay (MFR) which supplies power to the fuel pump. If you don't hear the click, the MFR may be bad. You have to listen in quiet conditions, but it can be easily head if it's working.

You should be getting fire w/ a new distributor, power to the distributor, and distributor rotation. Was distributor a rebuilt, used, or new? As suggested by PA, check the distributor ground on the thermostat housing, as this can cause no start if loose or corroded.

How are you checking for spark? Do you have an inductive pickup timing light? If yes, try attaching lead to any spark plug and turning engine over. If no flash, then no spark, or if flashing, then spark is good.

I've had some luck w/ getting a stuck fuel pump to run a bit, by "hammering' w/ the keyswitch on/off/on... After a while it would catch (buzz from fuel tank). However one not started for 2 yrs may never catch. Check power to the Yellow wire at connector in trunk. This is a 2-man job since power only stays on 2-3 secs after switch is turned to On.

good luck

 

I borrowed a volt meter and unplug the dist.and Im getting 12 volts but still no spark to plugs I check the ground wire at thermostat housing and cleaned it also. as far as the fuel pump check the access panel in the trunk is for the fuel sending unit and i cant find a yel/blk wire and could that cause it not to be firing?