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93 Accord Swapped Engine will not start

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2013, 02:27 PM
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Default 93 Accord Swapped Engine will not start

Hello,

This is my first post. Thanks for your help in advance.

I am trying to get my sons car going. Bear with me while I explain everything. We bought this car from someone after the cam sprocket twisted off the camshaft. I replaced the cam shaft and cam sprocket with one out of a junk yard.. . Tried to start it and it would not start. I have owned a few accords and know all the problems they have. I checked the main relay and it was fine so I replaced the fuel pump and it fired up. Now the only issue was it had a very rough idle which turned out to be a bent valve and so we decided to replace the engine. (Key point )So as it sat in the drive we would still start it to move it a round. Well one day it would not start at all. I couldn't hear the fuel pump any longer and there was no fuel squirting out at the fuel rail. So I just thought the fuel pump went bad again. I said we will replace it when we get the new engine in.

Fast forward and the new engine is in now. I changed the fuel pump and ready to start it up. The new fuel pump was not turning on. Checked the relay and the fuel pump would only turn on when I ran a separate ground to the relay ground. I fixed that by a loose ground at the water pump. When I transferred the wiring over I must of just finger tightened it. Anyways after I tightened it up the fuel pump turns on. So I crank and crank and it will not start. So here is everything I know and have tried.

1. When I turn the key to the on position the CEL comes on for about 2 seconds and you hear the pump prime and the CEL light goes out

2. The starter turns the engine and everything turns over just fine.

3. I know I have spark. I attached an inductive timing light to each plug wire and the timing light flashes strong with each rotation.

4. I know I have fuel pressure. I hooked up a Fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and I have 40 PSI.

5. The plugs are wet when I remove them after cranking after a few try’s.

6. I did a compression test and my book says 178 is normal and 153 is min. All cylinders tested in upper 170's.

7. I have checked all fuses.

8. It has new NGK plugs and new NGK wires. New cap and rotor. These parts were on the old engine and did work when it started back then.

9. I did re solder the Main relay . I even tried another relay I pulled from a junk yard and I soldered it as well and it made no difference.

I see the check engine light come on for a few seconds and I hear the pump. I have Fuel, spark and Air. Even when I unplugged the Distributor to check compression the ECU tripped a 15 code. I cleared it and things act normal again.

So it seems to me I am having the same problem I had before I switched the engines. Since I am using the same intake and same ECU and all the same wiring and fuses , relays etc I have transferred over the same no start issue to the new engine that I had before. I am thinking ECU?

What are some tests I can do to troubleshoot the ECU.

Any help or suggestions would be very helpful.

Thank you,
John Hershey




 
  #2  
Old 07-28-2013, 06:50 PM
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ECU shouldn't be the problem w/ your no-start. You have checked for spark, fuel, and compression. Only thing left is timing.

Check that camshaft is aligned at TDC w/ crankshaft.

Check that distributor timing is approximately correct. You can check this w/ starter tuning engine. Distributor out 180 degrees will cause no start. It can happen.

Finally, there have been posts where spark was observed both visually and w/ flashing timing light and car would not start. Coil replacement was fix. You can check coil resistance against spec, but this test is prone to instrument error and user error.

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 07-28-2013, 09:33 PM
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Hello,

Thanks for your reply. So you think it is the ECU? Ok I bet your right about the coil. I will give that a try and or test it. I have the external coil.

I completely went thru this engine when I had it out of the car. I know the timing belt and marks are dead on. I adjusted the valves while I had it out of the car and before I put the timing belt covers on. Everything would line up just fine, I also made sure I had it a TDC before putting the the Distributor on. I made sure the rotor was pointing at number one when I put it on the engine.

When I installed the cam on the head I made sure it was pointing up and the two marks or slashes were even with the head. Since the cam is keyed it can only go on one way and just need to make sure it is pointing up. Then I made sure the crank was all lined up also. I am not saying I am perfect but since it was out of the car I really made sure all was perfect before I put it back in. I changed the head gasket and also changed the spark plug O rings on the bottom of the cam lifters just so I dont end up with oil in the plugs.

I have a box full of accords and civics distributors but I dont have this kind. So Honda switched to the on the outside instead of it being on the inside? I know my 91 had a recall where they changed the cap and rotor. I have repaired a few cars for the no start but normally they were dead and no timing light flash. I will look into testing or just getting a new one. Like I said something died before I switched the engines and the problem got moved over to the new one.

Thank you for your help! When I change it I will let you know,

John
 
  #4  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:18 PM
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Make sure you have the spark plugs in the correct firing order. The order is 1-3-4-2 going clockwise on the distributor look at the cap from the passenger side of the engine bay.

Do you have a timing light?

What are the wire colors going to the map sensor? Also the throttle position sensor?
 
  #5  
Old 07-28-2013, 11:20 PM
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Hello,

Yes I am pretty sure I have that part right but it wont hurt to look at them again. If I was perfect I wouldnt be asking for help so I will take a look again.

Yes I have a timing light.

3. I know I have spark. I attached an inductive timing light to each plug wire and the timing light flashes strong with each rotation.


Its late right now but I will get the colors of the wires going to the Map Sensor and the TPS. I will get back to you.

Thanks for all the Help!
John
 
  #6  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:47 PM
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Map Sensor= Sensor itself RED, White and Green - Plug it plugs into is Red\White Stripe , Blue\White stripe and White\blue stripe

TPS Sensor= Yellow , Red and Green

Thank you........
 
  #7  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:49 PM
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Update: I did a external coil test from my Haynes book..... tests fine I then stopped at the Junk yard Pick N Pull and pulled a used coil ...tried it same issue. It tested fine too!

Really stumped!
John
 
  #8  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:19 PM
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You have the right wire colors going to the map and tps.

There is an important ground on the thermostat housing that you should make sure is properly attached.

The plugs soaked with fuel indicate a spark problem. It is possible to install the distributor 180 out of time. I have done this before.

You can verify by pulling the valve cover and setting the engine to TDC on the cam sprocket. Unbolt the distributor cap. Then verify the contact on the rotor is pointing towards the #1 plug.
 
  #9  
Old 08-03-2013, 01:29 AM
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Yes I checked that. I made sure it was pointing to number one plug wire.

I think I might be on to something. So all the cranking with the new engine I noticed a small oil leak under the Distributor. This was right after I installed the engine and it wouldnt start. So I replaced the O ring. Well while I was checking things tonight I pulled the cap and there was oil in the cap. So I pulled it all apart to rebuild the Distributor and change out the bottom bearing and seal. I have a box full of accords and civics distributors. Well I noticed everything covered in oil and also all the wires that go to the pickups were hard and brittle and cracked and bare wires exposed. I am pretty sure the crank sensor and timing is all in the Distributor and I bet it is shot. So I will set out tomorrow to get a nice one out of a bone yard. Stay tuned I am pretty sure this is my problem. I have spark but I think it is weak because of all the oil in there and also the pick up sensor wires are shot. I will keep you all posted.

Thank you,
John
 
  #10  
Old 08-03-2013, 08:42 PM
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After installing the new Distributor it is still not starting. I am not sure what else to try. I need to make sure the Fuel Injectors are working. Will double check all grounds and report back. Thanks!
 


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