Sup everyone new to the forum and hoping you guys
can help me with my problem which been at trying to fix for months now,ima try to make short and simple, but so everyone who can help know that the basics have been covered been covered, so only the more indepth information im in need of, 3 issues that i know are possible signs but every road ive gone down resulted in correct results, injectors are not pulsating, tachometer not moving during cranking and cel light stays on after 2sec and fuel pump goes off.ive always had a starting issue since owning car,however it was usually whenever really hot outside and interior temps high and it was with cel light not going off everything else would work but if cel didn't turn off already knew car wouldn't start until temps cooled inside but have let car sit for longer than usual and since these are problems,but injector plugs have correct voltage and noid light check on all 4 passed with ground side switching,strong fuel pressure and spark. If starting fluid is sprayed into throttle it starts up immediately until burns up and motor quits, 3 different distributors all in working condition and new ignition module from honda installed with no difference ohm checked all 3 distributor sensors crank,cly and tdc all within spec checked short to ground on them as well and showed no short as meter read infinite, so what exactly is the sequence between ignition key turned ×main relay and ecu ?? Cause if injector plugs pulsated noid lights and coil is triggered to spark id assume that distributor sensors are giving info required to ecu in order to initiate signal to do so, but injectors all 4 are not pulsating and replaced them as well thinking maybe from car sitting they went bad being 30yrs old, but ive had many hondas which weren't bought brand new and never had that kinda issue but nothing last forever so nothing to lose except the chance of (excitement that it fix the problem) and of course i got robbed so is there anyone who knows what sequence occurs when ignition on × main relay and ecu to which cel gets turned off ? Sorry for the essay but wanted all information told that would help with the needed information and not backwards questions so anything that would narrow it down would be much appreciated guys thanks.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but I can't read your post. Posting is always about technical details; please use paragraphs for each topic.
The good news is possibly someone else here will try to understand what your post is about.

I've a '92 and used to have a '93 so I picked up on your thread's title.

 

Uhoh is correct. Your post is confusing.

Sounds like you have a lack of fuel problem. Before replacing any more parts, I have some more questions/suggestions.

1. Is the CEL always staying on, or will the car start up if the CEL turns off after the 2 second bulb check?
2. Check for codes. See the writeup for CEL codes in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum.
3. Please describe exactly how your are testing power and the ground signal to the fuel injectors? Provide where you connect to ground/power for the tests and if you are using a volt meter or test light.

 

Okayyy , im not book writer so sorry if my attempt to fulfill information that if not said results in time wasted in questions that have already been done, know im kinda confused about what type of honda either i have or you have cause all 11 ive owned in 17yrs have been with ignition turned to on position folled by fuel pump priming for 2sec its turns off as well a cel light, know greatly appreciated for your time to acknowledge my request for help if if its in regards to un able to read what i posted if not in a paragraph author writing style, as im more good with mechanical tools and equipment of various types and sizes, but to make sure my issue and required information is acceptable im make short and in a authentic author style arrangement,

1993 accord ex 5sp
Issue: injectors not pulsating

Issue #2: tachometer not moving during cranking

Issue #3: cel light fails to turn off after 2sec fuel pump prime as it does whenever it did start the entire 10yrs owning it.

verified information: spark,fuel pressure,distributor sensors signaling,injector plugs voltage and noid light ground side switching verified,ignition spark at all 4 plugs verified.

additional information: engine starts immediately when
starting fluid is sprayed into throttle body.

Requested information: sequence of events between the ignition switch× main relay × ecu to figure out whats missing preventing cel light from turning off after 2sec mark in possible relation to tachometer not moving and injectors not pulsating (even though verified working with noid light testing) as well short to ground test on tdc,cyl and cam sensors at ecu plug side all had no reading of short to ground.
3 working distributors and new ign module installed to no difference made.

 

I'm not sure if the tachometer moves when starting an early 90s accord. Your problem is on the fuel side, so you can rule out the distributor along with the internal sensors and anything else that controls the ignition/spark.

The sequence of events is complicated, because the main fuel relay is not a simple relay. The main fuel relay is really 2 relays on one part powering the fuel pump, the injectors, and also sends a power signal to the ECU. Parts of the main fuel relay are also controlled by the ECU. Your problem is one of the these items in order from most likely to least likely: ECU, main fuel relay, injector resistor block, or faulty wiring. Any one of these items can be your actual problem, so don't just assume it is the ECU.

I'm asking questions and recommending tests to help narrow down your problem.

1. Is the CEL constantly staying on and preventing the car from running?
2. Please check for CEL codes. Please see: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/

The noid light shows a problem with either the injector power or ground, but does not identify if the power or the ground switching is missing. One of the wires to each injector has the same color for each injector and that is the power wire. Please use a test light connected to ground on the power wire and let us know if the power wire to each injector is working with the key in the II position.

 

PA HONDA your almost with me on info needed ok first with relay ok before whenever its was reall hot out i already knew there be 60% chance car wouldn't crank when off from work middle of hottest part of day in florida,so what would happen is turn key to on position and fuel pump primes and cuts off after 2sec however the cel light wouldn't go off and i knew it wasnt gonna start so id either leave doors open and let interior cool down and try again or sit and cycle the key on and off for about 5min or until cel light would turn off along with fuel pump, keep in mind all this happened even after replacing main relay thinking it was the problem 4yrs ago. But aside from always having this problem it always eventually started and until now has never left me stranded.
As for what would eventually happen after cycling ignition is id hear additional sound made from main relay or in that area whenever the cel light would go off and just before this event happens id also hear fuel pump prime second time if i just left ignition turned on and waited, so again obviously injectors get powered from relay and verified as already said, also know ignition/distributor gets powered from relay as well as verified and also said has spark etc. This has already been mentioned and verified as to not go backwards with obvious things and noid light verfies two things in which if dont have wont work #1 power #2 ground side switch and again stated this already and to answer the other question the cel light stays on, anyone with experience with these cars knows this if you don't then the kinda help or problem im dealing with is probably higher level than your think of, car has always started when fuel pump primes and cel light goes off after 2sec mark and so does every honda/acura of the 90's era. There's something either ecu isnt seeing or relay isnt sending to ecu and this is where im stuck at figuring out.

Does anyone know what requirements needed or sending by ecu or main relay ?? Remember that whenever i had left key on and waited for few minutes that id hear additional sound or click around relay area and that fuel pump would prime again followed by the cel light going off and then car would start, so its a signal or ground issue im thinking but with test mentioned and confirmed im stuck on which direction to head to find problem, and at this moment if i spray starting fluid into throttle body car will start immediately so if fuel pressure is confirmed (stated above ) and starts whenever something flammable sprayed into throttle then obviously its gas problem specifically my injectors but has 5v and unless there's something happening whenever all 4 plugs are connected noid light test verified power and ground side switching from ecu which controls the ground signal. So what is the sign if tachometer isnt moving during cranking and yet spark is happening at right time meaning there's communication between sensors in distributor and ecu otherwise the coil wouldn't have been triggered to fire again thinking signal or ground short or loss or something close this theory 🤔

Maaaaan, im get so tired of dealing with this situation and honestly about to go APE **** ON THIS CAR !!!!!!

 

Pa honda sorry missed second question.
yes the cel light is remains on after 2sec mark and prevents car from starting. Cant say that whenever this happens from beginning if injectors were pulsating or not cause it always eventually started just sometimes wasnt the first try and almost always when interior temps was blazing hot, rarely did it happen when cold outside not to say it never happened but not often enough to remember. So yes its something to do with signaling or grounding or possibly short to ground preventing ecu from turning off cel after 2 sec.

I read somewhere what the initial meaning is whenever you turn key on engine off the first few seconds example the oil light and abs light comes on meaning the ignition is powered and assum whenever cel light go off this means ecu or related signals have been checked and verified and engine ready to start.

 

A noid light is a bulb you plug into your injector connector. If the noid light does not flash when cranking the engine, then you do not know if you are missing a ground signal or the power to the injectors. Have you tested only the power wire with a test light or volt meter? I'm asking, because your post is not clear. If you are missing power, then your problem is related to the main relay. If you have power, then your problem is with the ECU.

 

Smh, noid light flashes and have also said voltage confirmed also said if starting fluid is sprayed into throttle body that it starts up immediately, have said fuel pressure at rail verified spark at plugs verified ive done majority of basic obvious checks its why i tried to really include as much information so therefore it would be acknowledged and focus the possible scenarios to cause this problem, its happened similarly to others but those cases involved fuel pump not priming or no spark etc. Did some rechecking on distributor specifically continuity test and had continuity on every wire going to icm except for the blue wire which had no continuity to it. Test was done with wire tabs disconnected from icm and both ways with blue wire. Also the yel/grn wire wasn't showing voltage but showed mila amps 10.45 ma is this normal Hayes doesn't specify much regarding this wire so not sure what value it should have ? Goal was to fix tachometer or know why its not moving during cranking my gsr does and del sol and ek all show movement even when injectors unplugged to prevent from starting. Not sure if my voltmeter can pick up rpm signal from the one blue wire found underneath steering column so far, which lookin like it goes to cruise control module.

 

The tachometer is not the reason your car is not starting, because the tachometer deals with spark. Please ignore the tachometer until you get the car running. I think the tachometer will work properly once the engine is running.

Your car has a fuel delivery problem. Specifically with the injectors to being signaled to open. I asked specifically what tool you used to test for power, because a volt meter can be misleading. I try to verify what "basic" tests you completed to ensure you don't waste money on unnecessary parts.

Since you have not posted any results from check engine light codes, I will assume that no codes were present.

Also, you won't directly answer my questions with any detail. Get the OEM part number from your ECU and purchase a replacement ECU with the exact same part number. I'm 90% sure this will fix your problem. I'd be more confident recommending an ECU if you would answer my questions directly.

I'm done trying to give you advise. Good luck and hope the ECU fixes the problem.