Okay if you read my first post stating my issue it will specify what tool used for what diagnoses.but just to repeat what was said i used noid light for ground side switch check and voltmeter for voltage check on injector plugs as well as 3 different working distributors and new icm from honda with no difference ( to know that sensors arent issue) for #1 injector not pulsating #2 tachometer not working.... #3 ok its obvious that a single guage on cluster isn't why my beloved accord isnt starting so thanks for informing me of this,however to share my view as the reasoning for my interest into its working order is because possibly whatever it is thats preventing it from not moving a pinch during cranking just so might also be whats preventing my injector from pulsating being they both have 2 things in common #1 voltage power #2 the most important factor is ground, and just so happens that your observation that its a fuel problem happens to be in relation to my injectors so yes this is my reasoning for interest to why tachometer isnt working.. so the tools involved unless something else can be used for better results noid light,voltmeter and test light. The ecu is always usually to be blamed but its still a possibility but if there's a way to verify that its receiving and sending the need signals (which ive asked of the sequence) on the other honda forum which ironically nobody seemed to answer the whole question but said the main relay is involved with two sides partially controlled by ecu ( aware of all of this of course) but dont know entirely what steps take place between ignition key on - main relay (aside from power supply to fuel pump,injectors) and ecu ? I know that car with no doubt will start when the cel light goes off after 2sec just after fuel pump stops, its fixing whatever is causing it not shutoff which this isnt the first time this problem has been had with cb7 except those cases had no fuel pump priming or voltage at injector plugs all of which i have verified 2 and 3 times.. the only cel code i thought id already mentioned before was for i.a.t. sensor which aside from removing the sensor to check resistance the actual plug has voltage no other code was given from code retrieval. Haven't been able to determine if results mentioned previously with continuity test done on icm wires blue had no continuity the others did using dist housing as contact point again Haven't been able to justify as normal or as issue question still hasnt been answered, so at best before i purchase anymore parts i need to know its necessary cause nothing worse than results remain same as before money spent. So what's the view from current status of results given from test done ?

 

Thanks. That is much clearer.

Normal cranking rpm from the starter is about 200 rpm. The lowest reading shown on your tachometer is 500 rpm, so you may not see the tachometer move when cranking the engine with the starter at only ~200 rpm.

I don't have the pinout in front of me, but I'll give you pins at the ECU to test when I'm on my home computer. I recommend a test light to verify good volt meter voltage tests, because a test light draws more current. Testing with only a volt meter can be misleading, because a damaged wire without current flow will read correct voltage on a volt meter, but the voltage can significantly drop when current is trying to flow through the wire. A test light draws more amps. I hope this makes sense. You must be very careful when using a test light, because you can harm the ECU if used incorrectly.

Another free test is to remove the ECU and remove the cover. Inspect the circuit board for any obvious signs of component damage.

 

Pin 3 on the main fuel relay should have 12V when the key is in the II position. You have to test with the main fuel relay plugged in. Pin 3 has a yel/blk wire and is directly across from the tab to release the electrical connector. My shop manual says the yel/blk wire goes to the ECU pins A25 and pin B1. Check that you get 12V to those pins to the ECU with the ECU unplugged. Just verify the wire color is yel/blk I'd recommend using a test light for this test.

Pin 8 is trickier to test on the main relay. It looks like a grn/yel wire that is 2 wires away from the electrical connector release tab and on the same side as the tab. The quickest way to test is to test for 12V at the ECU on pins A7 and A8 with the test light when the key is turned to the start position. Completely unplug the ECU and also use a test light after verifying the grn/yel wire.

If you are at the ECU also check for loose pins in the electrical connector or any loose pins on the ECU.

 

ok cool but how am i suppose to know what voltages are if test light is recommended for these test to be done ? Appreciated for your time and help.

 

If you are using an automotive 12V test light, then it is a yes or no answer. If the bulb turns on, then you have 12V. If the bulb doesn't turn on, then you either have problem from the power source like connectors, the wire, etc.

 

PA, would his car use the resistor block like my 97 did? Just asking, as mine didn't have 12 volts feeding it, keeping it from running.

 

The 93 also has a resistor block like your 97. I keep recommending using a test light to verify power at each injector to eliminate the resistor circuit.

 

A test light is OK when you're just looking for whether it's 12v or zero. It's kinda based on how that circuit could likely fail, and it isn't real likely for it to fail in a way that gives a slightly wrong voltage. It's either got power or it doesn't.

 

Yup, that's what I ran into. It didn't have power, so I jumped it off the battery. Once I did that, I had power and it ran. In my case it wasn't getting power to the resistor block, keeping all 4 injectors from firing. Don't know why exactly, but it lost power feeding the block.I ended up running a new power wire from the main relay (that everyone kept telling me was bad, but wasn't) to power up the block.

 

Ok well first let me thankyou for your efforts.
secondly i could've swore i replied somewhere that only codes from ecu was i.a.t which obviously not causing this issue, so if i didnt report this my apologies, as for ecu yeah ive tried 4 different working ecu's from identical versions as mine from 4 different friends cars including a chipped one from my del sol just to see if there's any difference and hey wouldn't you know not one thing changed as results was same each time 😊, but again appreciated your time.