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93' accord won't start

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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 02:55 AM
  #21  
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On my car, the coil is inside of the distributor cap, so my setup is a bit different.

On your car, you want to unplug the electrical connector to the coil and keep it unplugged. Hook a test light between the blk/yel wire and the blu/wht wire. When you try to start the car, the light should flash. That test light should also be turned off when the key is in the II position, and you are not trying to start the car.
 
Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #22  
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Test light did not light up, what next?
 
Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #23  
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My car had a Yellow wire, Black and White wire, and A yellow and Black Wire. I checked between all wires.
 
Old Mar 9, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #24  
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No flash with test lights any suggestion
 
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 09:54 PM
  #25  
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almost 5 months later and still now start, been extremely busy. I have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. just bought a distributer and new icm I will let you know how that goes in about an hour.

when I try and turn it over I get the sound of it trying to start paired with a "ping" every cycle. what can this be? By every cycle I mean if I were to try and start the car and time it the ping would happen every 2-4 seconds
 
Old Jul 26, 2010 | 12:38 AM
  #26  
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great news!!! The car starts and runs!!!! Here is everything I did,

New Distributer (the wires inside the old one were cracked, couldn't find just the wires so bought new one)
ICM (came with the distributer)
Spark Plugs
Wires
Cap & Rotor
Air filter
Fuel Filter
Oil
Valve Cover Gaskets (all 8 O Rings and valve cover gasket)

New Problem..... The "Ping" stated in the last post has gotten worse. It sounds like it is coming from under valve cover. it now is a constant Tick very loud. I am wondering if I didn't tighten the rocker assembly enough or over tightend. What do you guys think? I don't know if it was there before, the car showed up in my drive way not running this is the first time I was able to get it running.

The loud tick or "Ping" is consistent, what I mean by that is it is a beat that never changes rhythmically. So I think I am going to rule out that something was dropped down into the engine. Because if that was the case it would be more of a random tick, Right?
 
Old Jul 26, 2010 | 04:49 PM
  #27  
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So... did you replace the LOWER sparkplug tube seals? Those are the O-rings below the camshaft bearing caps?

If so, you had to remove the rocker assemblies. Putting them back perfectly, in the right order, and torquing sequence might be the problem???

Did you adjust your valve-lash after doing this? It might be as simple as that.
 
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 08:45 AM
  #28  
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Yes replaced lower. Rockers are installed correctly I will re check torque after work. What is valve lash?
 
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Valve lash = valve clearance. Sometimes just called a "valve job".
 
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #30  
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How do I perform this? Is there already a how to? Or is it in haynes manual? Sorry on my I phone with out 3g kinda slow at searching
 



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