'93 CEL CODE 4 and 6 flashing "D4"
I have a '93 4cyl and when I went to start it up this morning, the CEL stayed on and the "D4" was flashing. I then shorted out the little blue connector under the dash and the CEL then flashed 4 short flashes then a pause then 6 short flashes. I am also smelling gas when I get out of the car with no visible fuel leak.
Is this a code 46 or is it a code "4" then a code"6". What does this all mean?
BTW, I just put a new distributor in it about 2 weeks ago.
Is this a code 46 or is it a code "4" then a code"6". What does this all mean?
BTW, I just put a new distributor in it about 2 weeks ago.
Code 4 is Crank Angle Sensor circuit fault. The CAS is in the distributor. Any work on distributor or installation problems w/ distributor? Distributor can be damaged by attempting to install w/ distributor key to camshaft upside down.
Code 6 is coolant temperature sensor circuit fault. This sensor is inexpensive and easily replaced. It is below and forward of distributor. Bad wiring or connector could cause this problem also.
Suggest downloading a manual from the "Online Manuals" post in DIY section.
good luck
Code 6 is coolant temperature sensor circuit fault. This sensor is inexpensive and easily replaced. It is below and forward of distributor. Bad wiring or connector could cause this problem also.
Suggest downloading a manual from the "Online Manuals" post in DIY section.
good luck
Thanks for your reply. I didn't have any problems installing the distributor and it has been working properly for the last 3 weeks.
I read in my manual that to check the CPS that you check the resistance between two connectors in the plug. Tha Haynes said it needs to be between 260 and 500ohms. I got 370 ohms out of mine. That tells me it might be something else.... I am not so worried about the temperature sensor it is the crank thing that has me worried.
I am really stumped on this one and am contemplating taking it to the dealer because of this.
I read in my manual that to check the CPS that you check the resistance between two connectors in the plug. Tha Haynes said it needs to be between 260 and 500ohms. I got 370 ohms out of mine. That tells me it might be something else.... I am not so worried about the temperature sensor it is the crank thing that has me worried.
I am really stumped on this one and am contemplating taking it to the dealer because of this.
It could be that oil/dirt has accumulated on the distributor pulse gear and prevents the signal pickup from generating a good signal. You will have to pull and disassemble the distributor to fix this.
You may want to measure CPS resistance at the ECU to verify that wiring is OK.
Are you sure you measured the CPS resistance? There are three sensors, Crank Position Sensor, Cylinder Position Sensor, and Top Dead Center Sensor. They are similar or identical and measuring wrong one is possible.
Otherwise, a replacement distributor may be only fix. Check ebay, car-part.com for used units. Some new distributors are available online at reasonable prices also.
Suggest checking the TCU for the trans code since D4 light is flashing. Trans Code 10 is also for a faulty water temp sensor.
good luck
You may want to measure CPS resistance at the ECU to verify that wiring is OK.
Are you sure you measured the CPS resistance? There are three sensors, Crank Position Sensor, Cylinder Position Sensor, and Top Dead Center Sensor. They are similar or identical and measuring wrong one is possible.
Otherwise, a replacement distributor may be only fix. Check ebay, car-part.com for used units. Some new distributors are available online at reasonable prices also.
Suggest checking the TCU for the trans code since D4 light is flashing. Trans Code 10 is also for a faulty water temp sensor.
good luck
Seeing how important this car is to me and how out of place I am doing electrical type work, it gives me great displeasure to sadly say........... I have brought it to the dealer. [sm=smiley13.gif] This marks the first and only time this car has been brought to the dealer. I am hoping that there is something small to fix/replace that will get me going rather quickly. Even though I have abandoned fixing it myself, I will come back and inform you all of what was wrong.
Also, if the distributor is at fault, I will raise a big stink with the parts department because this is a brand new distributor from HONDA. Possibly I may have damaged a wire during installation and hopefully they will find out what is wrong. I'll keep you posted.
Also, if the distributor is at fault, I will raise a big stink with the parts department because this is a brand new distributor from HONDA. Possibly I may have damaged a wire during installation and hopefully they will find out what is wrong. I'll keep you posted.
Just to give an update. The Honda dealer said my idle valve IAC was very clogged with carbon and needed to be cleaned. I surmize that it is what may have caused my engine to idle so low that the crank speed sensor code came out or that I didn't clear the code when I replaced the distributor. The mechanic also found a loose electrical connector of some sort that he re connected. All in all they charged me only the diagnostic fee of $98.00 to look it over. He also cleared out the computer and reset everything. They also said that I should probably put a bottle of Sea Foam through the tank every once and a while to clean things out.
I just hate electrical problems and to me the 98 bucks was well spent.
I just hate electrical problems and to me the 98 bucks was well spent.
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tingjunkie
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Sep 17, 2010 06:37 PM




