Hello all,

First let me say "Thank You" for all that I have learned from this forum. I am a first time Honda owner and the wisdom available has been invaluable.

Now here is my problem. Sometimes, my Accord will run just fine, but other times it will fall flat on it's face while driving. The first 1/4 of the pedal is fine, but after that it will just die. If I keep pushing the pedal down, at about 3/4 throttle it will take off again. But the entire mid section of the pedal travel basically has no effect on the engine. It will cough and pop if I hold it in this area long enough, so it doesn't appear that the ignition is shutting off and there is obviously fuel present.

So far I have tried the following:

air filter, cap/rotor, plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, thermostatreplaced

egr ports have been cleaned, timing checked, throttle body cleaned, checked for vacuum leaks

Unplugging the EGR valve has no effect. The TPS checks fine, both off-car resistance and on-car voltage (smooth from .47v to 4.4v).

This car appears to have had almost zero maintenance and I believe most every part I replaced was necessary, but nothing has had much effect on how it runs. Any thoughts or advice would be most appreciated.

Steve

 

valve adjustment tight intake?, FPR diaphram/ check for raw gas in the vacum line
When exactly is the "sometimes" it runs bad? Hot, Cold, Rain, Uphill?

 

Ignition leads??

 

I have not checked valve adjustments yet. I have not looked at the FPR yet either, but I will right away.

By ignition leads, you mean plug wires? I did measure resistance and they are not arcing. It is not just dropping a cylinder, so I paid the most attention to the coil wire, but it seems fine.

I can not tie this to anyoperating condition. It will do it hot orcold, wet ordry, city orhighway, running hard or babying it.

I think I will check the FPR first, and then plug wires. If neither get me there, I will go over the valves.

Thanks guys!

 

Update:

When I changed the cap and rotor, I noticed some oil in the bottom side of the distributor and cap. It really didn't seem like much, but the outside seal was leaking too so Iordered them both. While changing the internal seal, I did notice a filmof oil on the lowest pickup. After cleaning and new seals, the car has been running fine with no stumbling for two days.

I have seen much conversation about the internal distributor seal. I got mine at rockauto.com for like $8. It might look a little intimidating, but really was a simple job. Go slow and pay attention to how it came apart. Make sure youuse the right screwdriver on the internals. The screws are soft and the heads will round out easily.

By the way, the FPR line was dry.