any codes ?? have you checked fuel pressure?? I know you said it is getting fuel but hook up a fuel gauge and see what the pressure is at....throttle body clean ??

 

I repeat, No codes. I tried to check fuel pressure one other time but couldn't find the right fittings without spend $200 some dollars on a master kit. It also will give a little back fire every few seconds when I'm cranking.

 

Pull the plugs and inspect them. While out, clean them.

Did you ever check the timing.....long thread and a bit of a break from the last post.

 

Pulled the plugs. One looked a little black , the other 3 still looked brand new. I cleaned them and put them back in... still no start. I don't have a timing light. In between the times it would not start, It started right up. That to me seems like its not timing. Its an intermittent problem. It fired right up after the new plugs, I thought the problem was solved. Then it wouldn't start, then it did, now it wont again. I'm thinking it might be some kind of sensor or something sometimes its working sometimes its not. I replaced the main relay a year or two ago when I was having starting issues when it was hot. It hasn't been hot when I've been trying to start it lately so I don't think that's it either.

 

Which spark plug looked black?

 

Humor me on this one, I haven't gone off the deep end in a while. So I am way over due

Reach under the egr valve and move it up and down a few times......

 

#4 spark plug I think. What do you mean move it up and down? it wont move. Before you tell me my egr valve is bad, you should know that it is pretty new. I replaced it when I read/was told that if it wont move up and down it is bad. Im not sure if the original was bad.

 

As I said, I'm going way out there.

If the egr is not closing off "sometimes", it can cause the car not to start. By moving is up and down I was trying to see if it might be dirty. Moving it manually might help seat it, letting the car start.

If yours is new and you cleaned everything you should be fine.....more thinking, coffee needed.

 

Update. I went out and messed with it today. I tried starting fluid and didn't get it to start. It might have been error on my part. I was trying to do it by myself, and maybe didn't spray enough. That stuff scares me, I like my eye brows. I took that spark plugs out again. Cleaned them good (noticed #4 black again). Stuck them back in, no start. Took them out one more time to see if #4 was black again, and it was. The rest looked clean still, but wet with gasoline. I checked spark at all 4 wires. I was getting spark at all 4, and it looked like a nice bright good spark. I checked plug gap, it checked out. Put them back in, no start. I thought, even though I'm getting spark it must not be sufficient spark (partial combustion in #4 and apparently none in the other 3). I checked the distributor cap, which I did before. The rotor looked good, contacts did too. There was a little corrosion on them, so I scraped it off with a screw driver. Put it back together and it started. I idled ok, but every once in a while if would stumble as it is was about to die, then recover. When I drove it, as long as I was accelerating it would be ok. When I started from a dead stop I would have to rev it up to where it would smooth out before I let the clutch out. It would stumble at low RPM's while I was trying to gain speed again. In conclusion, I'm going to replace the distributor cap and probably wires too. They were replaced right before I bought the car 50,000 miles ago in 2009. Hopefully this will fix the problem. I'll do another update in a couple days when I get it done. Sorry the post is so long.

 

Oh, another thing. Is there anything else that should go along with the distributor cap and wire replace? The plugs are brand new OEM NGK, so I'll stick with them.
Thanks