hey guys, I have made it real far on this beast and just want to get her back on the road! Its a 94 accord f22b2 sohc 2.2l, so far i had to get a new ecu(because it kept throwing a o2 code),cleaned the egr valve/ports, intake manifold, new o2 sensor, new tps sensor( old one was broken off), cleaned iac, new cap and rotor dizzy,new therm, new spark plugs, new fuel filter, new fan temp switch, new seals and gaskets, spoon headers (if that matters), so lets begin! I haven't been driving the car because i could not pass emissions and idle issues. I'm almost ready to take it back for emissions but i still have an idle issue. it idles low at around 500 rpms and you can tell the car doesn't like it, so i unplugged the iac and adjusted the screw to where the idle was about 700 which feels alot better. but when i plugged the iac back in and reset the ecu and everything. the idle almost went back to normal but noticed after it warmed up and and i moved he car the idle drops farther than ever and almost dies and just keeps doing this. as you can see ive done alot and have done a ton of research but cant find my problem! please some one winters almost over and i dont want to walk anymore!!!!

 

i also cant find or hear any vac leaks. i guess what i am asking is can my iac be malfunctioning and not throw a code and this is the result? tests? Thanks you guys!

 

When you say new seals/gaskets, which ones? More importantly, did you replace the head gasket?

Take a close look on your tachometer. The first mark past zero is 500 rpm, then has marks every 250. The 250 rpm mark is missing. This has tripped up a few people before.

 

The IACV movement can and does jam from excess oil/varnish buildup. IACV is on rear side of throttle body assy and somewhat difficult access.

I have cleaned IACV "in place" by releasing retaining nuts, leaving coolant lines attached. Use throttle body cleaner to clean, but careful not to wet the electrical parts (coil) w/ cleaner which may damage the solenoid drive.

It can also be removed entirely for cleaning by pinching closed (or plugging) the two hoses (minimize coolant loss) and disconnecting coolant lines.

good luck

 

i did not replace the head gasket only thing beside valve stem seals and the crankshaft seal but i do have the parts. i have cleaned the iac already thats why i am confused and i can move the base idle screw in and i wont lose rpms just stay at 500 and have bad timing.... now if i move it out i get the desired rpms but when i move the car the rpms wont stay with the screw farther out, it acts as if it wants to die.... does that mean something???

pahonda i dont quite understand what you are asking but if you think im reading the rpms wrong im positive im not.. i can make a video or take pic if needed!

 

havent wanted to remove the cam till i get a better torque wrench for the job! so no torques off!

 

When you adjust "base idle screw" are you adjusting linkage stop screw or air bypass bleed screw hear TDC of throttle body inlet? Only air bypass bleed screw should be adjusted. Throttle linkage stop screw should never be adjusted, but can be if you have moved.

Failure to compensate for load; shifting into gear, alternator, AC, etc suggests IACV is not working. Are you sure you cleaned IACV inlet screen movement, outlet port? If yes, the IACV solenoid may be non-functioning. An electrical fault in IACV should set a code 14. If no code, you may want to examine the IACV on bench using 12V power supply to demonstrate the solenoid valve is working.

good luck

 

I wanted to make sure you weren't reading the tachometer wrong, because it is easy to do and an easy mistake to fix.

How did you set the TPS so the ECU would read it as zero?

What wire colors are going to the Map, IAC, and the TPS sensor? The resistor box on the driver side of the firewall (Has metal fins on top), what wire colors are going to that square connector?

 

thanks texashonda that was my question, my rpms do not move when i turn a load on they just stay the same but no code. i will pull it off later tonight after work and test it with a 12v supply. yes im sure ive cleaned it. alot of wierd things with this car like the code for my 02 heater that was a short in the ecu!!!long venture on that one cause the guy who had the car before pulled the check engine light out.... wierd stuff i say!!!lol

 

i guess i was reading it wrong if 500 rpms is the first line then 725 and so on. im at about 725 rpms but running rough to a point. as far as know i put the tps sensor on its 3 wires green yellow and something ill check i think its the same as the map. but when i put it on i put a multimeter on volts and tried to position it to .45 v only problem is that i jump from like .16 min to like 5.06 fast.. cant find the sweet spot... if thats what you mean!