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94 accord lx shifting problems

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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 05:09 AM
  #1  
David Shepard's Avatar
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Post 94 accord lx shifting problems

my 94 accord lx 5-speed is having shifting issues when the car is on, when it's off I can cycle thru all gears, when I start it, I can't shift into any gear, I've replaced the master clutch cylinder, no difference in shifting..i had someone watch the slave cylinder with car on and off, and it didn't move at all, should I replace it? Also, does it make any type of difference if the springs are missing from the clutch pedal or no? If someone could respond and maybe help me out, I'd be forever grateful, thank you
 
Old Nov 13, 2017 | 07:04 AM
  #2  
JimBlake's Avatar
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Sorta sounds like the clutch is dragging. Shift into first gear, start the engine, holding the clutch pedal down. Does the car try to move forwards, like an automatic trans would do when it's in gear?

When you replaced the clutch master, did you bleed the air from the hydraulic lines?
 
Old Nov 13, 2017 | 07:33 AM
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David Shepard's Avatar
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Ya, as far as I know I did, I pumped the clutch like 8x's then released the bleeder valve on the slave, liquid came out every time...and ya it takes off immediately, almost backed into a parked truck by trying reverse also..so when in gear and engine starts, it tries to go
 
Old Nov 13, 2017 | 11:41 AM
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So definitely the clutch is dragging.

That CAN be caused by the clutch disk being warped or fraying. But air in the hydraulics seems more likely considering you said the slave isn't moving the throw-out lever.

Bleeding from the master to the slave is essentially pushing the fluid downhill. You have to keep at it, don't waste time between pumps & bleeds. Otherwise the bubbles will rise back towards the master. If you give up too soon, you leave the bubbles in there.

I've bled the clutch the other way, pumping fluid into the slave, towards the master. It's possible to do this with some kind of syringe, but I have a pressure bleeder which makes it easier.
 
Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:56 PM
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ok, so basically just keep pumping and releasing fluid till it finally let's the air out, and I'm guessing that could either be 1 minute or 1 hour huh, oh and does the spring clutch pedal make a difference or no?
 
Old Nov 13, 2017 | 01:46 PM
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OH, I forgot about that part...

I'm tempted to say the missing springs won't matter, but I'm not completely sure.

When using the pedal-pumping method, tie a string around the pedal to pull it back up. Control it with your foot & don't let it snap quickly upwards. Maybe without that helper-spring, it won't have the tendency to snap upwards??

After pumping, hold the pedal down while the other person opens the bleed valve. After closing the bleed valve, pull the pedal up smoothly. Without the helper spring, it might become essential to pull on the string (as opposed to just being helpful).

You probably have to keep doing this until some bubbles come out. I think I pushed around 7 or 8 ounces of fluid. But I've had the pressure bleeder for quite a few years now, so not sure my memory is good for that volume.
 
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