94 accord problems
#1
08-25-2009, 08:58 PM
94 accord problems
i have a 1994 accord 2.2 automatic and i have a couple of problems.
1)the door locks keep clicking when i lock them even inside the car
2)the window wont go down the driver one but all the other windows work. the driver window is all the way up but wont come down
3)my temp guage goes up but not to the middle. it stays alittle below the middle mark but i get heat and everything.
4)my tranny is making this buzzing/clicking noise when i deccelerate from 2nd or 3rd and at idle in park as well.
help is appreciated-tks
1)the door locks keep clicking when i lock them even inside the car
2)the window wont go down the driver one but all the other windows work. the driver window is all the way up but wont come down
3)my temp guage goes up but not to the middle. it stays alittle below the middle mark but i get heat and everything.
4)my tranny is making this buzzing/clicking noise when i deccelerate from 2nd or 3rd and at idle in park as well.
help is appreciated-tks
Last edited by accordrulz; 08-25-2009 at 09:09 PM.
#2
08-25-2009, 09:40 PM
1. Likely the door lock actuator. My driver's side one went out and I had the same problem.
2. Possible window motor problem. or the switch. See if you get power to across the terminals that go to the power window motor when you hit the switch.
3. My temp gauge is at about 1/3, so that is normal.
4. Not sure about this one. Try to locate the noise. Could be one of the shift solenoids on the transmission.
2. Possible window motor problem. or the switch. See if you get power to across the terminals that go to the power window motor when you hit the switch.
3. My temp gauge is at about 1/3, so that is normal.
4. Not sure about this one. Try to locate the noise. Could be one of the shift solenoids on the transmission.
#3
08-26-2009, 04:22 AM
Did you just buy this car?
Buzzing could be a broken / abused transmission, does it shift quickly or does it hesitate to change up or down? You could replace the fluid, check it to see if there are metal shavings or any signs of damage in the fluid or the housing of the transmission. Changing the fluid might hide the problem, it might make it run differently but could still be damaged. You should get it properly inspected either way.
Also, I dont know how much you know about cars, so this could potentially be a stupid question, but do you have an aftermarket exhaust muffler? When you downshift you are engine braking, and its compressing the air going into the intake and exiting out the muffler, alot of mufflers will make a buzz or a clicking sound when you downshift to engine brake, but its totally separate from the transmission, if you have the stock muffler and hear a buzzing sound from the transmission, then its the transmission youve gotta worry about.
When I first bought my car it made a rattling noise, I thought it was the catalytic converter, and it turned out to be the gasket that connects the headers to the catalytic converter, but it only did it at 1800rpm, does your transmission buzz at a specific rpm?
If you wanna try to fix the window that wont roll down, take off the door panel, use a multi meter to check the motor terminals and the switch, also the window motor is hooked up to a fuse box, to the left of the steering column, it will have a map to which fuse is which, check the drivers side window fuse to see if its blown. I suggest chekcing the fuse box first, then if its not a fuse problem you should take off the door panel and see whats happening under there. You can check the switch for the door locks also when youve got the door panel off.
When my car is warmed up the gauge reads 1/4 above cold. Nothing to worry about.
Good luck.
Buzzing could be a broken / abused transmission, does it shift quickly or does it hesitate to change up or down? You could replace the fluid, check it to see if there are metal shavings or any signs of damage in the fluid or the housing of the transmission. Changing the fluid might hide the problem, it might make it run differently but could still be damaged. You should get it properly inspected either way.
Also, I dont know how much you know about cars, so this could potentially be a stupid question, but do you have an aftermarket exhaust muffler? When you downshift you are engine braking, and its compressing the air going into the intake and exiting out the muffler, alot of mufflers will make a buzz or a clicking sound when you downshift to engine brake, but its totally separate from the transmission, if you have the stock muffler and hear a buzzing sound from the transmission, then its the transmission youve gotta worry about.
When I first bought my car it made a rattling noise, I thought it was the catalytic converter, and it turned out to be the gasket that connects the headers to the catalytic converter, but it only did it at 1800rpm, does your transmission buzz at a specific rpm?
If you wanna try to fix the window that wont roll down, take off the door panel, use a multi meter to check the motor terminals and the switch, also the window motor is hooked up to a fuse box, to the left of the steering column, it will have a map to which fuse is which, check the drivers side window fuse to see if its blown. I suggest chekcing the fuse box first, then if its not a fuse problem you should take off the door panel and see whats happening under there. You can check the switch for the door locks also when youve got the door panel off.
When my car is warmed up the gauge reads 1/4 above cold. Nothing to worry about.
Good luck.
#4
08-26-2009, 06:54 PM
-my trans is automatic just so we r clear. I do get that buzzing at 2000 everytime i accelerate and i did get it checked and the mechanic said it was at the cat (connection i think) but i think it might be same as urs(gasket). As for the air brake, when i am in 3rd or 2nd and i go to stop the car, the engine does slow down and i hear a buzzing noise either from trans or engine-seems like trans.It is the stock muffler.
also, i did check the fuse and it was alright. i dont have a multimeter, could i check the terminals with the testlight or switch?
also no i had this car for like 4 yrs
also, i did check the fuse and it was alright. i dont have a multimeter, could i check the terminals with the testlight or switch?
also no i had this car for like 4 yrs
#5
08-30-2009, 01:05 AM
Yea if I were you Id get a small clamp and try clamping the connection between the cat and the headers, make sure its one that you adjust and squeeze tight because the spring ones wont cut it, that will dull down the vibration.
Multimeters are cheap, you could get a digital one for like 10 bucks and it will work well enough to let you know whats up with the system. The only way to test is with a multimeter, because you would put the multimeter leads on the power window motor terminals, and when you press the button you would see if the motor is getting voltage or not, there arent any other safe ways of testing if its getting voltage or not, not to my knowledge. If its not then you would check where the wires are coming from and test where they start out, could be a break in the wire (unlikely, but occasionally happens). My friend has a civic and her windows wouldnt roll down, it was another part though, she didnt tell me what it was specifically but I have a feeling it was a relay or the window regulator. You could try re seating the relay too. Otherwise, go to the junkyard, get another power window motor (which has the regulator in it I believe) and swap it out. Make sure that the switch is plugged in properly too.
I think your transmission is probably fine, because my header/cat merge gasket was buzzing like crazy, its loud enough to be embarrassed by lol. Clamp it tightly, I tightened my vise clamp as much as I could and it dulled down the noise alot! I can still feel it rattling a little, at 2200rpm instead of 1800, but it got rid of at least 90% of the noise. I was going to replace the gasket at first, but everything is rusted together and I didnt want a bolt to disintegrate and not be able to connect. Plus clamps are cheap. Once you get rid of the exhaust noise, you should be able to tell if its the transmission making the noise.
Multimeters are cheap, you could get a digital one for like 10 bucks and it will work well enough to let you know whats up with the system. The only way to test is with a multimeter, because you would put the multimeter leads on the power window motor terminals, and when you press the button you would see if the motor is getting voltage or not, there arent any other safe ways of testing if its getting voltage or not, not to my knowledge. If its not then you would check where the wires are coming from and test where they start out, could be a break in the wire (unlikely, but occasionally happens). My friend has a civic and her windows wouldnt roll down, it was another part though, she didnt tell me what it was specifically but I have a feeling it was a relay or the window regulator. You could try re seating the relay too. Otherwise, go to the junkyard, get another power window motor (which has the regulator in it I believe) and swap it out. Make sure that the switch is plugged in properly too.
I think your transmission is probably fine, because my header/cat merge gasket was buzzing like crazy, its loud enough to be embarrassed by lol. Clamp it tightly, I tightened my vise clamp as much as I could and it dulled down the noise alot! I can still feel it rattling a little, at 2200rpm instead of 1800, but it got rid of at least 90% of the noise. I was going to replace the gasket at first, but everything is rusted together and I didnt want a bolt to disintegrate and not be able to connect. Plus clamps are cheap. Once you get rid of the exhaust noise, you should be able to tell if its the transmission making the noise.
#6
09-02-2009, 10:45 PM
i think it might be my engine becasue right at start up it starts making this ticking noise pretty loud (the engine might be knocking)and when i put it in drive it goes away, then when i am about to shift into 3rd but i dont let it, the engine trys to slow the car(engine brake) and the noise comes back. doesnt the noise have to be from the engine because in park the transmission is disengaged?- also would seafoam help
#7
09-03-2009, 03:29 AM
That "ticking" sound is from your engine's valve train, it usually gets louder when the engine is cooler, once it warms up it should sound better, its normal for the engine to make that noise. Ive never actually used seafoam before so I cant say too much about that, Ive heard people claim it cleans parts up and could reduce resistance, thus reducing noise, but I dont know for sure, couldn't hurt.
And yes, if its making the noise while in neutral then not related to the transmission, so its probably the valve train doing its job that you're hearing.
And yes, if its making the noise while in neutral then not related to the transmission, so its probably the valve train doing its job that you're hearing.
#8
09-03-2009, 11:26 PM
i dont think its the valves it something that sounds harder-clunking noise and sounds like coming from the lower side of the engine. when i start it, the noise is pretty loud and when i am about to break and the engine is about go to third gear but if i dont let it the engine immediately takes the rpms down(slowing the car via engine brake) and wont shift to next gear and the noise will come at that point. i think something is very wrong w the engine.-could it be the crankcase?
