I have a 94 accord 2.2L lx 5 speed.
here’s my problems: I closed the passenger door one day and it wont open anymore, opening from the outside handle or inside handle doesn’t do anything. The locks are manual locks not power. I want to know how can I get the door panel off when the door doesn’t open and I can’t take the screw off which is located near the hinges. What part do you think I will need for the door?
Also my car vibrates slightly when I am idling at a stop. Some times my tail pipe shakes at the stop also. How can I fix that?
Also my check engine light comes on sometimes, and I just pull over and turn the car off for 5 seconds and then turn it back on and it disappears. I heard something about putting a paper clip somewhere and then reading how many times the check engine light flashes to figure out the code. Can any one clarify this and tell Me where I can LOCATE the plug to put the paper clip?
Also my maintenance light came on (turned fron green to red), I RESET IT BUT what maintenance do I need?
Also my car makes a rattling noise only when I switch from 1st to 2nd gear. I think it is coming from near the front of the muffler.
All this and I have a slight leak on the bottom of my radiator.
If any one has any input that would be appreciated!

 

WOW Holy cow my man you got quite a few issues

# 1,, As for the door, first off make sure that the door latch rod clip did not brake if it is ok. you will need a new door latch assembly. the way to open the door is to remove panel and drill a hole through the metal at the exact spot , so you can brake the lock clip in the latch,, there is a bulletin or service news on this with the measurements,, unfortunatelly i do not have it ..

it would be easier to remove the frt seat , to take the door panel off,, you can remove panel with seat still in, but you need to bend it a bit and it might brake ,,

#2 ,, vibration at stops.. make sure idle is adjusted properly and chk the motor mounts. as for the tail pipe shaking , chk the rubber mounts,, also is it a factory exh system ??

# 3 ,,you need to pull the code for the chk engine lite......the plug is located under the glove box ,there is a ruber holerd with 2 plugs going into it,, you need to jump the plug that has 2 wires , use a paper clip.. turn the key on and count the flashes on the instrument cluster,,
short blink = 1
long blink - 10
let it code at least 2 -3 times to make sure there is not more than 1 code,,

# 4 ,, as for the maintenance how many miles on the car ??

have the cooling system pressure tested to see where leak is at ,,make sure lower rad hose clamp is tight ,,if it is leaking from radiator , you might have to replace it

 

umm, it is a factory exhaust, and the odometer says 136 000 miles but i think it is alot more, i have had the car for 1 month and it is a refurbished car, also the speedometer and odometer works 75% of the time but sometimes they both just go off at the same time then a few minutes later it goes back on, because of this i am shure that the odometer isn't accurate... well thanks for your help, my father in law is a retired mechanic so i will tell him what you said and get him to look at it..... by the way this is a great site....
i thought the vibration at a stop meant i needed a tune up (to change the wires and spark plugs and stuff) but i guess not and my father in law told me to change the oxygen sensor but i dont think that has any thing to do with that. you guys are great...

 

oh and i thought i should add this because i felt i was putting down my car too much, the driving of the car if fine, acceleration and and gas milage is good, it is just when i am at a stop it vibrates.....sorry i hope i am not wasting people's time by writing so much..forgive me...

 

the vibration is probably a bad motor mount. to get the door out, do like desert said. take out the seat and then take the door panel off, you probably have some broken linkage in there..

 

good news! i tried the paper clip thing and i got 1 long and 2 short flashes, i looked it up and got - 12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve. Does that mean i got to replace the valve or it can still be several things???

 

good news! i tried the paper clip thing and i got 1 long and 2 short flashes, i looked it up and got - 12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve. Does that mean i got to replace the valve or it can still be several things???

 

check to see if the vacuum line is connected to the EGR valve first...

 

Ok,, we are going to do some diagnastic work,, it will take some doing on your part, and it is a long procedure so i won't go into it all at once ...

you have cleared the chk engine lite correct?? restarted car and lite came back on code 12 correct ?? If so,,,

after the engine is warm and at idle... disconnect hose # 16 from the EGR valve..connect a vacc pump with a gauge to the hose ...

1....if there is vacc , disconnect the 4 pin connector at control box,, and recheck for vacc again ..

1 a .. if there is still vacc,, chk hoses for egr valve,, if hoses are ok REPLACE EGR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE

1 b...if there is no vacc, inspect the pink wire for short to ground between EGR control solenoid valve and the ECU,,


IF when you disconnect hose # 16 and there is no vacc ,, connect vacc pump to EGR valve ,and while engine is still at idle apply 8" of vacc..

2.. if the engine does not die or EGR does not hold vacc ,, replace EGR valve

2 a ... if the engine dies..while engine is off and key still on,,.. disconnect the 4 pin connector from control box ,, measure the voltage between ,, black/yellow ( pos) , on the wire harness side ,,, and body ground

2 b..If no battery voltage, there is an open between the solenoid valve and fuse # 4, 7.5 amp in the under dash fuse box

try these tests and let me know ,, what turns up..

 

sorry for takeing so long to right back... my internet was cut off and i was out of town for 40 days. I wanted to let you guys know how the car is doing...
So i got the door out easy by removing the seat and i changed the latch lock whick i bought for 50$ at the scrap yard.
I didn't bother with the diagnostics because i guessed that i would have to replace the egr and or seloniod valve which costs 375$ at the dealer for the part alone plus labor, plus an extra $75 for the diagnostic test (since i dont have a vaccum with a gauge to do it myself.). so since i found i used egr and seloniod for 50$ from the junk yard i decided to put it on and see what happends. the check engine code doesnt come back anymore so that is a good sign i think. i tride to inspect the mounts they seemed ok but i couldn't see one of them properly. the vibration at idle seems to be less but still comes and goes.

Also i bent a plate that was covering my ehaust to see if the rattling would stop at 2000 rpms but it didn't, i have to check that out again.

Also i didn't bother fixing my radiator yet because it doesn't overheat and the leak is very small.
I am haveing a new problem which i would like to get everyone advice about but i will start a new message for that... thanks guys...