Hello all, glad to have found this forum.

I am a Chrysler tech, and have a 94 Accord 2.2, manual trans here that I am repairing for a family friend.

Basically, it runs perfectly fine when its cold, and the second it reaches operating temp, and closed loop, it starts bogging down terribly, and falling flat on its face. It gets worse and worse the longer it runs, to the point that it will only do about 30 miles an hour, and if you push the pedal it will just sputter and stumble, and backfire thru the intake at times (like timing is off, but runs fine cold and idle).

Its acting the like coil is bad, I checked the spark before I replaced the coil and it was very weak, and yellow. Havent checked it after, out of patience as of now, lol...

Here is what has been done so far:

New distributor, wires, coil, plugs
EGR system checked, was ok, (disabled as well, no difference, valve is not stuck, opened and closed with vac pump manually)
Repaired some cracked vacuum hoses
Checked and adjusted timing
Checked compression (175-185 on all, engine warm)

I am unable to check the fuel pressure because I do not have the adapters for the lines, and their is no schrader valve that I can see.

Other than that, I am lost on this one. It always starts right up, will run ok no load, it will spit and sputter even if it is revved no load. All good until it warms up. Not a single code in the computer, no check engine light.

I have found quite a few threads on similar hesitation problems on various forums I have searched for the last hour, but none seem to have a solution......hope you guys can help, really appreciate it.

 

There is a 94 shop manual you can download from the links in thread called Online Manuals in DIY section.

Does the check engine light come on? I would short the connector in under the glove box with a thin paperclip. Follow these instructions: http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html

The EGR passages in the intake manifold may be clogged, but it doesn't sound like your problem. http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/egr.html

Did you get a new ignitor as well?

I made a post on how to make a fuel pressure gauge. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=17408

The adapter will screw into the fuel rail when you remove the adapter on there.

 

Ok guys i have a 94 accord and i want to know if my fuel pump is going out when i turn off my car my fuel pump seems to be making a humming sound or like its still working. So can u guys tell me if its going bad or if its a relay. That would be great thanks.

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Thanks for the info!! I'll have a look.

Is the igniter part of the distributor or is it a separate unit (if so, where is it located)? If its part of the distributor than it is less than a month old.

Only time I got a check engine light, or any codes (code 12), was when I disabled the EGR to see if there was a problem with the system. Valve moves free, took it off, ports didnt look bad, but thats not to say the ones deeper in were plugged. When I opened the egr manually with a vacuum pump, the engine stalls. When I first looked at the car it was running like crap all the time, and I had found the vacuum lines switched on the egr solenoid, so the valve was getting constant vacuum. I switched those around, then it ran great........untill it got hot lol..

This is very much acting like an ignition issue, the way it stumbles and backfires thru the intake...wondering if that new distributor is any good, not sure where he got it, but looks like an Autozone special.

 

The igniter is bolted inside of the distributor and has 4 wires running to it.

If you have a timing light, see if each wire has enough spark to flash the timing light. Does he still have the old distributor? You can swap igniters.

 

It might be worth trouble of checking fuel pressure. In the Honda shop manual, looking a poor performance issuses and loss of power, the fuel pump is listed as #1 cause, fuel filter #2, and injectors #3.

good luck

 

Yeah, its kind of acting like the GM cars when the fuel pumps are going.

I'll see what I can come up with for fittings to adapt a gauge, I have some banjo bolts from a Cummins that might fit.

Weird thing is it runs great until it reaches operating temp...but I guess the pump could be getting hot and weak. Thanks for all the help so far guys. I am going to tear into it some more tomorrow.

 

Pull the vacuum hose from the FPR. Any fuel in there indicates a ruptured FPR. That would run very rich, which is just what the engine wants when it's cold.

 

Ok guys, riddle me this one...

Checked thru a ton of fittings I have laying around the garage this morning, could find nothing to adapt my pressure gauge to check it...so...I decided to try a simpler method..It was hesitating pretty good right off the cold start today, so I pulled it up to the garage and pulled the breather hose out of the intake...I worked the throttle by hand, got it to hesitate/stumble with no load applied, and squirted a couple shots of ether into the intake at the same time....hestitation/stumble was gone after that for a couple pumps of the throttle...repeated this two or three times with the same result.

My vote is for the fuel pump...I was essentially richening up the mixture by doing that, and if it would have been ignition it shouldnt have changed a thing....what do you guys think before I throw $180 for a pump and filter at it?

 

I wouldn't hesitate throwing a fuel filter at it. But before I threw a new pump at it, I'd invest in a couple fittings so I could measure fuel pressure.

But... what you're saying makes sense to me.