94 Accord threw a timing belt...
#1
94 Accord threw a timing belt...
Is this an interference engine?
A compression test is one of the first things I'll do, just need to know if I'm doomed from the start or if I'll get lucky.
It's the standard 2.2 engine
Thanks guys
A compression test is one of the first things I'll do, just need to know if I'm doomed from the start or if I'll get lucky.
It's the standard 2.2 engine
Thanks guys
#3
Bad news is the story of my life. LOL... I'm tearing into it as we speak. I want to get the rockers off so I can do a proper compression test.
Here's a thought. Could I remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still bolted to it? Or are there hidden bolts that would require me to remove them? Figure I could save a few bucks on the gaskets if I could remove it as a unit instead of breaking it all down.
Once again, thanks
Here's a thought. Could I remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still bolted to it? Or are there hidden bolts that would require me to remove them? Figure I could save a few bucks on the gaskets if I could remove it as a unit instead of breaking it all down.
Once again, thanks
#4
Trying to think to way back when when I last removed a F series head. I think it could be done with them still attached. Exhaust manifold for sure, just unbolt the top half of it from the bottom half. Pretty sure the intake manifold as well.
Good news is F22 engines and heads can be had cheap used.
Good news is F22 engines and heads can be had cheap used.
#5
There's a wiring harness underneath the intake manifold that is bolted to the intake manifold. It must be released to free the exhaust/head/intake to be lifted.
Timing belt must be removed using basic timing belt replacement procedure.
Combined assembly will be heavy and you may need a lift.
You will be very lucky if valves are not bent, but you never know until you check compressions. Why remove rocker arm assy?
good luck
Timing belt must be removed using basic timing belt replacement procedure.
Combined assembly will be heavy and you may need a lift.
You will be very lucky if valves are not bent, but you never know until you check compressions. Why remove rocker arm assy?
good luck
#6
I removed the rocker arm assemble to keep from damaging any more valves and so I could do said compression check. It was simple enough... My compression tester is the old kind you physically hold down in the spark plug opening, and it's not long enough to get down in there. Even with the rockers removed. Looks like I'll be going to autozone in the morning to inquire about their loan-a-tool program. LOL
Just by holding the palm of my hand over the plug holes and having my kid crank, it looks like the #3 piston may have contacted the valves, and I'm thinking it's the exhaust valves because I'm getting puffs out the tailpipe, but nothing thru the intake.
The timing belt is already off the engine, snapped in half
While we are on the subject here, where are the timing marks? The balancer is dirty, so there's a good chance I'm simply not seeing it, but I cant seem to locate it. Also, does this engine have a crank position sensor? And if so, is it required of me to match up the timing marks? I was thinking that I could simply spin the crank till the #1 piston is at TDC, and then set the cam/distributor at the appropriate position and bolt it all back together once I'm done. But if there's a CPS, I'll need to center it to make sure I'm not 180* off.
By the way, I'm a decent shade tree mechanic, but I'm mostly into carbureted V8 muscle cars... Translated- I can do this, but this feul injected computer stuff is not quite my area of expertise.
Thanks for the replies guys
Just by holding the palm of my hand over the plug holes and having my kid crank, it looks like the #3 piston may have contacted the valves, and I'm thinking it's the exhaust valves because I'm getting puffs out the tailpipe, but nothing thru the intake.
The timing belt is already off the engine, snapped in half
While we are on the subject here, where are the timing marks? The balancer is dirty, so there's a good chance I'm simply not seeing it, but I cant seem to locate it. Also, does this engine have a crank position sensor? And if so, is it required of me to match up the timing marks? I was thinking that I could simply spin the crank till the #1 piston is at TDC, and then set the cam/distributor at the appropriate position and bolt it all back together once I'm done. But if there's a CPS, I'll need to center it to make sure I'm not 180* off.
By the way, I'm a decent shade tree mechanic, but I'm mostly into carbureted V8 muscle cars... Translated- I can do this, but this feul injected computer stuff is not quite my area of expertise.
Thanks for the replies guys
#7
You have to take the balancer off to set the timing. There is a key that is lined up with a mark on the block. Might want to see if autozone has a crank pulley bolt removal tool as they are a real paint to get off.
You do have to set the timing marks or you will be 180 off. Its not all too hard on the single cams though.
You do have to set the timing marks or you will be 180 off. Its not all too hard on the single cams though.
#8
There's a decent download manual available via links of Online Manuals post in DIY forum. This will be helpful for TB work.
If you have a good quality air impact, the balancer retaining bolt will usually come loose w/ heating the bolt head for 5 mins w/ propane torch or shorter time w/ acetylene torch.
good luck
If you have a good quality air impact, the balancer retaining bolt will usually come loose w/ heating the bolt head for 5 mins w/ propane torch or shorter time w/ acetylene torch.
good luck
#9
Compression test confirmed the bad news... Only one cylinder [#1] pumped over 100 psi. Cylinders 2 and 3 barely even blipped the dial, and #4 came in at 20 psi.
The local pull-a-part doesn't have any 4 cyl honda's in stock at the moment, and the other yards want over $100 for a bare head..... Looks like I'll be replacing a whole bunch of valves.
The local pull-a-part doesn't have any 4 cyl honda's in stock at the moment, and the other yards want over $100 for a bare head..... Looks like I'll be replacing a whole bunch of valves.