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95 2.2VTEC auto boggs down

Old Apr 7, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #1  
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Default 95 2.2VTEC auto boggs down

Hi all. 95 Accord EX with the 2.2VTEC and an automatic. When cold it runs and drives great. Once it warms up is is when I start to have problems. No problem in 1st gear but when it shifts to 2nd, it will bogg down and misfire. Once it hits 3rd, it seems to straighten out a bit and 4th we are more or less back to normal. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor all new within 1500 miles. Am thinking EGR but wanted to get some other opinions. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Old Apr 7, 2018 | 04:17 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by washy66
Hi all. 95 Accord EX with the 2.2VTEC and an automatic. When cold it runs and drives great. Once it warms up is is when I start to have problems. No problem in 1st gear but when it shifts to 2nd, it will bogg down and misfire. Once it hits 3rd, it seems to straighten out a bit and 4th we are more or less back to normal. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor all new within 1500 miles. Am thinking EGR but wanted to get some other opinions. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Any codes? You might have to use the paper clip method on the test connection under the glove box to get them.
 
Old Apr 7, 2018 | 09:04 PM
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Agree with toecutter, is the check engine light turning on when driving? The common diy thread on top of the gen tech help section has a link on how to check for codes on your obd1 accord.
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 05:45 AM
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Thanks for the response. The check engine light is not on. Nor is the d4 light. This is one of the things that is baffling me. I can check and see if there are any stored codes but assume that with no light, no code.
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 06:42 AM
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I'd check for codes just to be sure. Also we are assuming the light is working, there is a bulb check when you first turn the key to the "on" position...it should come on for 2~3 seconds and then go off.

If no codes, I hate to guess and throw parts at an issue. O2 Sensors can get lazy without setting codes and being OBD-I there isn't much live data to help.
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 06:51 AM
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Yes the light is working. I hate to just throw money at an issue as well. I had someone else suggest converter but you would think that it would be an issue all the time and not as described. Does anyone think a simple vacuum leak would cause this type of problem?
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 07:39 AM
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Did these problems occur after the cap, plug, wire replacement? If so what brand do you acquire? Honda brand are very finicky about their ignition components..OEM is pretty much mandatory...
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 08:10 AM
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Yes, there are a number of things that could cause the issue.

I would venture that a vac leak would be showing itself with other issues - high idle, "hunting" idle, ect.

Converter is not very likely based upon the description you are giving.

I wish I could give you a simple answer but a no code drive issue on OBD-I is not a simple thing.

For giggles, try unplugging the O2 sensor wires. This is still not a true test as the ECU will go into a "default" mode but may shed some light on the issue.
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by hondaslave1342
Did these problems occur after the cap, plug, wire replacement? If so what brand do you acquire? Honda brand are very finicky about their ignition components..OEM is pretty much mandatory...
^^^+1

I would get it warm, and acting up, at night. Spritz water around the engine compartment looking for arcs.

Coil?

Roy
 
Old Apr 8, 2018 | 04:58 PM
  #10  
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Just checked for any codes. there were none. As for plugs and wires I did use aftermarket cap rotor and wires but NGK plugs. Have about 1500-2000 miles and no issues until a day or so ago. Just after I filled the tank.
Will have to do some more checking as far as vacuum leak. It does have 223000 miles and looks like most of the hoses are original.
I will try unplugging the o2 sensors and see what happens.
Thanks all for your help
 

Last edited by washy66; Apr 9, 2018 at 03:36 AM.

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