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95 Accord Jerking at 2500rpm

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  #1  
Old 02-28-2014, 06:46 PM
Mario Locatelli's Avatar
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Default 95 Accord Jerking at 2500rpm

Ok, thought I had fixed these problems when I changed the clutch but apparently not.

1995 Accord F22B SOHC nonVTEC 2.2L

1)When the car is cruising at a steady speed, as soon as I reach 2500rpm (and stay there) the car will start to jerk forward violently. I can pass the 2500rpm if I just accelerate, but it seems 2500rpm is the cruising speed.

2)As Im coming to a stop and put the car in neutral the rpms will climb up to close to 3000rpm. As soon as the cars about to stop the rpms will drop to normal.
**NOTE**
When I changed my clutch I forgot to disconnect the VSS and the negative wire got snapped up along the line. While the VSS was not connected problem #2 was gone. The car did not climb in rpm's as i put the car in neutral and was slowing down. Soon as i reconnected the ground wire today problem #2 came back. I changed the VSS with 1 i got from pick a part thinking that was the issue.
Also, my speedometer will intermitantly work.

When the VSS wasnt connected correctly I got a CEL for the VSS, now with it hooked back up i dont have and CEL

I have changed the:
IACV
FITV
Distributor Cap
Cleaned the EGR's
Cleaned the Throttle Body
Even kicked the back tire

Only things I can think are the TPS and cap and rotor next to change.
Any ideas?
 

Last edited by Mario Locatelli; 02-28-2014 at 07:55 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:38 PM
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Just to be thorough, pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse from the engine bay fuse box for a minute to reset the ECU. I would also disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables with a wire brush or sandpaper.

There is an important ground near the drivers side of the upper intake, so disconnect that, clean the bolt and eyelet using the wire brush or sandpaper.

Reconnect everything, then start the car and let it get to normal operating temperature (fans turn on) without any load or touching the gas pedal. This allows the idle to be relearned.

Drive the car and see if the problem goes away. If the problem remains, check for codes regardless of the CEL, because the D4 light indicates transmission codes and doesn't turn on for all codes.

How many miles are on the spark plugs?

When the speedometer does not work, will the cruise control work?
 
  #3  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:40 PM
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Below is a picture of that important ground.

Were these problems happening before you replaced the clutch?

 
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  #4  
Old 02-28-2014, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Below is a picture of that important ground.

Were these problems happening before you replaced the clutch?

Yes, these problems were happening before I replaced the clutch.

Side note, I had just dropped the motor in a JDM motor about 500 miles before this started happening. Also I had replaced the entire dashboard wiring harness after the motor.


PAhonda: isnt D4 for automatics only?
 
  #5  
Old 03-01-2014, 05:02 PM
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Yep, D4 is only on automatics.

After a while on here, problems get repetitive. I will post before reading the entire history. That was my mistake.

Still check for engine codes just to verify they are gone.
 
  #6  
Old 03-02-2014, 07:31 AM
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It happens to everyone, PA.
 
  #7  
Old 03-02-2014, 04:47 PM
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I checked my engine light and im getting a error code 14

How do I know if its a ECU or TCU code?
 

Last edited by Mario Locatelli; 03-02-2014 at 05:14 PM.
  #8  
Old 03-02-2014, 06:33 PM
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You don't have a TCU on a MT accord. You shifting is the "TCU".

Code 14 is for the idle air control valve. That is on the back of the throttle body. Check the electrical connection.

What are the wire colors going to that valve? Is should be blk/blu and yel/blk.
 
  #9  
Old 03-02-2014, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
You don't have a TCU on a MT accord. You shifting is the "TCU".

Code 14 is for the idle air control valve. That is on the back of the throttle body. Check the electrical connection.

What are the wire colors going to that valve? Is should be blk/blu and yel/blk.
Any chance its the ECU? I did have to replace the entire dashboard harness about 5 months ago because of a real bad short problem.

I remember when I did change the IACV the car worked right for 1 trip. No idle acceleration. (Jerking was still there. Trying to get one of those ohm readers to check current for the TPS for that issue)
 
  #10  
Old 03-08-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda

What are the wire colors going to that valve? Is should be blk/blu and yel/blk.
Those are the correct colors
 


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