Ok I ran the test as PA suggested and found something that will hopefully lead to a diagnosis. With the same plug jumpered and the car running 3 of the wires had the right results but the red/blue to grd wasnt open. It had continuity and 56.7 ohms. So does this mean that its grounded somewhere and might be the problem?

 

Every test you have done has given the expected result, except for that last test. The red/blu wire should not be grounded. The question is, what is grounding the red/blu wire?

The ECU normally grounds that red/blu wire to turn on the a/c compressor.

The red/blu wire may be crossed with the grn wire. Unplug both of the relays on the driver's side fan housing. See if the green wire pin for the fan relay is open or closed to the red/blu wire for the compressor relay.

If closed, then those wires are shorted and you will have to trace the wires to locate the problem.

If open, the I think that you should replace the ECU. I hate making this suggestion, because the ECU is the last item you want to replace. I would look for a used ECU on a site like car-part.com. You can search by distance from where you live. You will need and ECU from a 94/95 LX/DX accord with an automatic. No EX or manual transmission ECUs.

 

Thanks again, Ill be checking that soon, have a doc appt. Ill keep you updated. I think were finally close to figuring out this beast.

 

Ok. I tested it. At first without the car on and without the plug jumped. They werent grounded together that way. But with plug jumped and car on they were both grounded together and both had continuity to grd. So does this mean I need to trace down the red/blue to whereever its connected to the green from the fan relay?

 

It means the opposite. The wires are not touching as found with the key turned off.

Both are grounded when the key is on, so something electrical (I think its the ECU) is improperly grounding the red/blu wire. When both wires are grounded, they are essentially shorted, because they are both connected to the same ground.

I would search that car-part.com site for a local ECU. Ask the junkyard if you can return the part if it does not fix your problem. You should know right after you install the ECU, because you can test that red/blu wire using your volt meter.

 

I found a local place that said only 100. But I need to give them the ecu number. So im going to go there pull the ecu. Ask them if I can return it if it doesnt fix it and test it in their parkimg lot. It would be awesome if it fixed it. Is there anything special I need to do to swap it?

 

I would disconnect the battery just to be safe. Then swap out the ECUs. Reconnect the battery. Test the red/blu wire like you did before.

 

New ecu. Still the same' and they dont do refunds on elecyrical parts. Only exchange. I also got two relays from him for free. But lost 107 bucks. I give up

 

The ECU is the last item you want to narrow down the problem, that was why I was suggested to find a place where you could return it. That sucks that they wouldn't let you return the ECU.

Something is causing the red/blu wire to ground when it should not be grounding. I guess that you can try unplugging a different item and see if that fixes the problem. The two items that I would start with are the a/c thermostat then the a/c diode. Although your electrical tests ruled them out.

Maybe clean the grounds in the engine bay? Look at the manual for the ground locations.

 

Yea I know it sucks. I just figured for that price I should just get it. The next lowest price I saw was 200. Im gonna just forget about it til next month. I was going to have honda diagnose it. But cant afford that since I bought the ecu. At least I can cross that off the list and tell honda all the things ive bought and checked.