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95 Accord LX - Clunk/jerk with shifting.

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  #1  
Old 01-04-2011, 02:52 PM
googlydorken's Avatar
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Default 95 Accord LX - Clunk/jerk with shifting.

Hello,
I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX sedan, 175k miles.
I am a little bit hesitant to shell out the cash to get a new timing belt/valve adjustments because I have been noticing a distinct jerk/clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It also jerks when I am parked, and shifting into reverse. I recently (a couple months ago) had my tranny fluid drained and had a new tranny mount installed. That day, my car was running a lot smoother (there was still a slight jolt though). However, as time went on, the problem has returned to it's previous state. I am not very well versed in working on cars, and I'm a broke college student, so I'm trying to make the best here.

Advice?
What is this clunkin'?
Thanks in advance,
James H
 
  #2  
Old 01-04-2011, 03:40 PM
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Is this a 4 or 6 cylinder? Does the D4 light start flashing when driving or does the check engine light turn on when driving?
 
  #3  
Old 01-04-2011, 03:45 PM
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It is a 4 cylinder. No, the light does not flash and the check engine light remains off.
 
  #4  
Old 01-04-2011, 04:03 PM
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I am not too good with automatic transmissions. When was the last time the transmission fluid was changed?

You could also clean out the shift and lockup solenoids along with the screens with some throttle body cleaner?
 
  #5  
Old 01-04-2011, 04:50 PM
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Me either haha. A couple of months ago, I drained it and refilled it.
Well, I wouldn't know much about the solenoids.. any advice at this point sounds good.

Thanks
JH
 
  #6  
Old 01-16-2011, 01:31 AM
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Hey, got similar problem in my 96 LX 2.2L, feel your pain, and wondering myself about solution other than rebuild/replace. My 2 cents so far: I don't thing there's any "adjustment" that can be made to correct the problem. I also read around here, that "Honda's are known to have rough shifting", and that some owners do end up replacing transmission(s) over length of ownership. Not very encouraging I realize, but not half as bad as what I've heard about the Acura CL's.

I step on that pedal pretty hard sometimes, and while I have some regrets, they don't outweigh the steppin'. So.....we'll see, and if I find any solutions with MY hard/rough/bump-shifting problem, I'll be sure to post it.

Good Luck
 
  #7  
Old 01-16-2011, 09:14 AM
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I would inspect for obd1 codes in any case. Some codes did not set D4 light flashing and might not set Obd2 code either (don't know). For instance trans code 15 (hard shifting symptom) does not set D4 indicator light on OBD1 cars.

There is an adjustment of the throttle cable linkage to the transmission that has significant influence on shift quality. This linkage moves a lever arm attached to transmission that modulates shifting pressure. If it is misadjusted, hard or soft (rpm flare between shifts) can result.

I would suggest downloading the 94-97 Accord manuals from the Online Manuals links in DIY forum to obtain adjustment procedure and check your adjustment.

good luck
 
  #8  
Old 01-16-2011, 09:44 AM
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Might want to do a few drain and fill changes on the trans (~3) if you are not sure of the full history. I suggest only to use Honda Z1 fluid when doing this. I've heard/read that using reg Dex fluid can cause hard shifts. It is very easy to do this change (drian and fill is the key to the ease).

To the OP-I see one mount was replaced, have you checked to see if one of the other mounts has gone, the front engine (center front between rad and engine) is the most common.

There is also a "kick down" (forget the actual name) cable from the tb to the trans. Make sure it is properly adjusted-unlikely the issue but something else to check.

Now for the personal note and a knock on wood- the 95 EX 4 cyl auto is all original (engine, trans) and is my current daily driver, just ticked over 364K about two weeks ago.

EDIT-way slow typing-watching tv too much-I see TX posted while I was sleeping at the wheel
 

Last edited by poorman212; 01-16-2011 at 09:47 AM.
  #9  
Old 01-17-2011, 11:18 AM
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Thank you, TexasHonda: I did see that shift linkage adjustment is possible, and didn't correct my previous post. Thanks for pointing out how important that can be with RPM surges during upshifts. That's exactly what it's doing. I see that it's shifting at the proper speed, but there is a last-second RPM-throttle increase before the completion of the upshift, even with steady pedal pressure, which makes it feel like it's jumping up, so it then has to come back down to the next higher gear, if that makes sense. Very annoying, and I'm developing anticipation anxiety along with it. I have online manuals you mentioned, and another as well, and will check it today, if it stops raining long enough.

Poorman212: I've read about beneficial fluid changes, and will definitely do that as well, on my own, with only Honda fluid. I read in earlier posts just what you said, that 'it may take several fluid changes' as well. Only, are you sure that fluid changes in high mileage trannys won't result in reduced performance or operation? I recall thinking I was doing a favor for my previous, 94 Buick Park Avenue, by getting a tranny flush-n-fill done professionally @ 175K miles, and noticeable, detrimental effects arose soon after. Something about the transmission seals getting used to the old fluid, or whatever. Just what I heard. My 96 Accord has @ 130K miles now.

Thank you!
 
  #10  
Old 01-17-2011, 11:44 AM
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If fresh fluid seems to create a problem, I think the problem was already there & you were on borrowed time. I don't think keeping old, dirty, worn-out fluid in there would be good from any standpoint.

Honda auto transmissions do not like to be power-flushed. Drain & fill is much better for the trans. Thing is, the torque converter doesn't drain, so you only get about 1/3 of the total fluid. Drive around a couple days to mix it up, then drain/fill again. Judge the dirty-ness of fluid draining out to see whether you need 3rd or (rarely) 4th time.

The best thing you can do to a new transmission it to establish a drain/fill interval where the fluid never gets very dirty in the first place. You're trying to get back to that condition.

Check AT fluid level with the dipstick, with the engine all warmed up but turned off.
 


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