95 Accord Overheating- ive chged evrything!
#11
Couple of questions...
Does it overheat while driving, or when sitting at a light or both?
When you say "over heat", does the gauge ride all the way to the "H" steadily, or does it hover at a normal place for a while then instantly go to "H"?
I don't see radiator cap on your list. I assume that's recent as well?
Does it overheat while driving, or when sitting at a light or both?
When you say "over heat", does the gauge ride all the way to the "H" steadily, or does it hover at a normal place for a while then instantly go to "H"?
I don't see radiator cap on your list. I assume that's recent as well?
The temp guage usually sits at just below half, and will ride up to the red if I dont turn on the heater(outside open air) and let off some heat. The temp goes up steadilywhen sitting.
#12
If it's consuming coolant, and considering the valve clatter/lack of power issues after the TB/WP job, a compression test and leak down test is called for.
#13
it runs rough immediately and valves are chattering(rattling) like timing is retarded, car feels held back, limited. Fans do come on after heating up. Ive installed a new radiator, cap, thermostat, water pump(the other WP wasnt bad), and a timing belt. I had some I had some someone else do the WP and timing belt. Kris, what does condenser side free of debris mean? Also, in the morning before driving, ill check the radiator and its under an extreme amount of pressure. its wierd.
But the pressure you describe when cold is consistent with a head gasket problem.
#16
95 Accord Overheating
Hello, I am new to all this, but I am wondering if anyone might be able to help. I have a 95 Accord LX with the 2.2 Non-Vtec, I recently rebuilt the motor, and a bunch of other things. The issue I am having is, running down the road or highway it is fine, but once I pull off the highway or get stuck in traffic, it overheats.
When I mean overheat, I mean the needle on the temp gauge goes all the way to the Hot mark and steam starts shooting out of the overfill res. If I fill up the radiator and the res to the minimum, it boils over while driving, and sucks air back in through the res. I have done pressure checks and head gasket check, and nothing is leaking.
Driving it is fine, but within 30-60 seconds of stopping, the needle starts to creep on the temp gauge. If I start moving again, it is fine. I have already gone through 3 thermostats (2 from dealer and 1 from AutoZone), a new water pump, flushing the system, radiator (due to broken hose nipple), and new hoses, sensors, relays, fans, etc. The primary fan (Right - Passenger Side) kicks on and off randomly while sitting and driving, but apparently can't keep up with the heat, the secondary fan (Left - Driver Side) only kicks on when the AC Button is pressed. I even tried wiring the secondary fan to run with the ignition on all the time, and still have this issue.
I am not pushing compression into the water jacket, I am not burning coolant, but the radiator doesn't like to keep coolant in it, it pushes out through the res, and keeps an air pocket in the top. I am up to my ears with this issue, and can't find a solution. I was wondering if anyone might have a fix to this issue, or am I stuck with ripping everything out, including the motor and starting over from scratch.
It did not do this before rebuilding the engine, and it did do this prior to installation of headers (ceramic coated and wrapped) and downpipes. Right now I am running with the secondary fan on all the time, and still having the issue.
PS: This only happens after I driver over 50mph for more than 10 minutes. If I am driving around town it is fine until after 45 minutes of stop and go traffic. I have tried replacing everything and nothing seems to work. Any help is greatly appreciated.
When I mean overheat, I mean the needle on the temp gauge goes all the way to the Hot mark and steam starts shooting out of the overfill res. If I fill up the radiator and the res to the minimum, it boils over while driving, and sucks air back in through the res. I have done pressure checks and head gasket check, and nothing is leaking.
Driving it is fine, but within 30-60 seconds of stopping, the needle starts to creep on the temp gauge. If I start moving again, it is fine. I have already gone through 3 thermostats (2 from dealer and 1 from AutoZone), a new water pump, flushing the system, radiator (due to broken hose nipple), and new hoses, sensors, relays, fans, etc. The primary fan (Right - Passenger Side) kicks on and off randomly while sitting and driving, but apparently can't keep up with the heat, the secondary fan (Left - Driver Side) only kicks on when the AC Button is pressed. I even tried wiring the secondary fan to run with the ignition on all the time, and still have this issue.
I am not pushing compression into the water jacket, I am not burning coolant, but the radiator doesn't like to keep coolant in it, it pushes out through the res, and keeps an air pocket in the top. I am up to my ears with this issue, and can't find a solution. I was wondering if anyone might have a fix to this issue, or am I stuck with ripping everything out, including the motor and starting over from scratch.
It did not do this before rebuilding the engine, and it did do this prior to installation of headers (ceramic coated and wrapped) and downpipes. Right now I am running with the secondary fan on all the time, and still having the issue.
PS: This only happens after I driver over 50mph for more than 10 minutes. If I am driving around town it is fine until after 45 minutes of stop and go traffic. I have tried replacing everything and nothing seems to work. Any help is greatly appreciated.
#17
If it wasn't doing this prior to the rebuilding of the engine then the only reasonable explanation I can think of is that the head gasket isn't sealing and it's letting combustion gases into the cooling system.
You say the compression is intact but it doesn't appear to be so. What were your compression numbers?
Unlike the OP of this thread, do yourself a favor and do a compression test first.
Also, both fans should always come on and run together when they do run when the ignition is on. Since the driver side fan isn't coming on unless the ac is turned on this would point to the fan timer unit being bad.
I am enclosing an illustration of where yours appears to be located. It appears to be somewhere under the dash.
It is part 13 in this illustration.
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...er=37740p0ha02
You say the compression is intact but it doesn't appear to be so. What were your compression numbers?
Unlike the OP of this thread, do yourself a favor and do a compression test first.
Also, both fans should always come on and run together when they do run when the ignition is on. Since the driver side fan isn't coming on unless the ac is turned on this would point to the fan timer unit being bad.
I am enclosing an illustration of where yours appears to be located. It appears to be somewhere under the dash.
It is part 13 in this illustration.
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...er=37740p0ha02
#18
If it wasn't doing this prior to the rebuilding of the engine then the only reasonable explanation I can think of is that the head gasket isn't sealing and it's letting combustion gases into the cooling system.
You say the compression is intact but it doesn't appear to be so. What were your compression numbers?
Unlike the OP of this thread, do yourself a favor and do a compression test first.
Also, both fans should always come on and run together when they do run when the ignition is on. Since the driver side fan isn't coming on unless the ac is turned on this would point to the fan timer unit being bad.
I am enclosing an illustration of where yours appears to be located. It appears to be somewhere under the dash.
It is part 13 in this illustration.
CONTROL MODULE, ENGINE/CONTROL UNIT (CABIN) for 1995 Honda ACCORD SEDAN
You say the compression is intact but it doesn't appear to be so. What were your compression numbers?
Unlike the OP of this thread, do yourself a favor and do a compression test first.
Also, both fans should always come on and run together when they do run when the ignition is on. Since the driver side fan isn't coming on unless the ac is turned on this would point to the fan timer unit being bad.
I am enclosing an illustration of where yours appears to be located. It appears to be somewhere under the dash.
It is part 13 in this illustration.
CONTROL MODULE, ENGINE/CONTROL UNIT (CABIN) for 1995 Honda ACCORD SEDAN
Thanks, the timer was replaced, and this is my second cd5, first was a 2door that the fans worked the same. Could be some models are different? I know mine is Japan built, not US or Canada. I don't know the precise compression specs but mine is running 1-176...2-181...3-175...4-180... I know we replaced the pistons, rods, crank, and cam for performance upgrades, I think the pistons are 9.5:1 or 10:1, can't remember which. I thought maybe the header, but was doing before. I even got a thermostat that is supposedly 18% bigger flow. I would put the old motor back in, but was replaced due to throwing a rod.