So I have this 95 accord, 75k miles 2.2 automatic, that sat for about a year due to needing a fuel pump. I got the car, replaced the fuel pump - and it would start, but it idles at an extremely low rpm (MAYBE 250) does not rev, no throttle input changes rpms. Sprayed a little starting fluid to it, and it died immediately instead of what I thought was going to happen (rev up).

I've replaced Plugs, wires, injectorss, fuel pump. Then out of no where yesterday, it started and ran great - revved up, idled normal, etc. I shut it off, started it again, same thing, idles about 250rpm (it doesn't even really register on the rpm gauge it's so low). I've checked fuel at the rail and it has pressure. I tried to pull a code, but the CEL just goes out after a few seconds or so and doesn't flash, but the SRS flashes.

Anyone have any ideas?

Also, on the back side of the timing cover there is a plug with nothing plugged into it, with wires that run into the block just above the oil pan and just behind the timing cover. Anyone know what this is for? Just found it while looking to make sure mice didn't chew a wire in half. Here's a picture for reference:

 

My guess is that the engine was swapped from a 96/97 accord, where the crank sensors were under the timing cover. The 95 had all the sensors in the distributor. This is likely not your issue. I'll look up the number of wires that should be going to the distributor just to be sure.

Take a look at your map sensor and let us know the wire colors that are going to it.

 

A vtec engine will have 8 wires in the big connector for the distributor. An LX/DX with the 16-valve cover, will have 7 wires going into the bigger electrical connector.

 

I'm not at the shop but this was owned by an older couple from new, and they pulled up to a stop sign and died. (Like i said, it's a 95 and only 74850 on the odo) they just didnt' want to spend any money on it so I ended up with it for nothing. (other than what I've already put into it)

When I get back to the shop, I'll answer your questions regarding the plugs.

 

Map wires 2 yellow/white 1 green/white
Distributor large plug is 7 wires and a smaller plug with 2 wires( blue and black/yellow)
I have pics of the plug. The valve cover, at least says VTEC. Numbers on the block are F22B1 with 3415568 below it.

Not sure what this says about it not wanting to run up passed 250rpms and then one time I start it and it ran great.

It isn't throwing any codes either. I unplugged the map just to make sure the cel was functioning and it is as well as the jumper to pull the code.

I haven't checked fuel pressure but it sprays everywhere when you crack the banjo nut. (O'Reilly's want 130 deposit for their fuel gauge).

Any additional help would be appreciated

 

Messed up my post. The EX connector has 7 wires, while the LX/DX has 8 wires going to the distributor's larger connector.

The map should have a yel/wht, grn/wht, and a wht/yel, so you are good. The map and tps connectors are the same and can be switched.

So everything is still good.

Your engine came from a 96 accord, so it was swapped at some point.

There is an important ground wire on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Make sure that is connected and you may want to disconnect and clean any rust with a wire brush or sand paper. See pic below.

 

I actually saw that ground today when I was rechecking wires (2 wires were grounded there) (it isn't far from the mystery plug, just on the drivers side of the intake instead of the drivers side of the back of the block) and checked it to be sure, but I see 0 evidence any of these bolts have been touched for a motor to be swapped out. (you can tell when a bolt has had a wrench or socket on it) May I ask what has lead you to this conclusion? It had to have been recent because as I said, the car has just 74k miles on it, and ran fine prior to the fuel pump going out of it (but doesn't appear to be a fuel issue because that'll spray everywhere if you loosen the bolt and hit the key)

 

Tomorrow after work I'll stop by the shop and double check the grounds and wirebrush them to make sure they're making good contact.

It has to be something like this why it decided to barely run 50 starts and then run perfect for one start and when i shut it off again, back to 250ish rpm and no chance in throttle affects the rpm's, and starting fluid in any amount flat kills the engine. I've checked all the vacuum hoses I could find, everything looked OK there. The only thing i haven't done is pull the rotor cap off and inspected there, but pulling a plug wire even a little you can here the "snap snap snap" of the arc.

 

If it's any consequence, it'll run at that low RPM forever, it doesn't die, even pulling a plug (which makes it run even slower). I let it run until the cooling fans finally came on and there was 0 change, and still no CEL.

 

Wow, that sounds so similar to what I was dealing with last week. I just bought a 99 Accord that the harmonic balancer bolt had backed out of and wore the balancer and key out. But, more importantly, it had jumped time. In my case it retarded the timing 10.5* with just 1 tooth moving to the left. After I reset it, it runs normal now. Has 12* advance at idle (according to the scan tool).
I know it's extreme, but it might be worth checking it. If you can put a code scanner on it, you might find out that it's off, then you'll know you've got to dig deeper. The belt might be getting old with age, and stretching. Just a thought.