I have a 95 Accord 4 door with a non V-Tec motor.It began stalling out about 6 weeks ago and I have spent numerous hours researching on here and trying various things.The first time it stalled, it would not restart after sitting for hours, thus the fuel pump replacement below.Car will start every morning nowwithout a problem and I can drive for about 30 minutes no problem.When it does start to stall, I can let it sit for 10 minutes to cool down and then it will start and run for about 10-15 minutes and dies when you decelerate. It seems I could run a long time if I never had to decelerate but I don't know that for sure.Here is what I have done so far:

1- Initially I read it might be fuel pump so I turned key to on position and pump did not run for the 2 secs so I replaced. Car will start now but dies when it gets hot.
2- Read that it might be ignition module. Pulled module and had tested at Autozone. Tested bad so replaced. Problem of dying when hotcontinued.
3- Read that it might be ignition coil. Tested coil and was within specs but when it got hot it was getting close to spec limits. Bought new one, waited for it to die, swapped in new one while it was hot, car started, ran for 10 minutes and died again. Pulled coil and returned. Not the problem.
4- Thought maybe I got a bad ignition module so I pulled it and had Autozone retest. It is fine.
5- There seems to be a lot of pressure that builds up in the gas tank. Don't know if it is causing problems but who knows.
6- No CEL warnings have come on.
7- When trying to start after it has died, the tach does not bounce or move. After waiting the 10 minutes it still won't move until it will allof asudden just start.

Fuel pressure regulator?? Main fuel relay?? Distributor??

I am very leary of taking this to someone because unless you drive the car for about 30 minutes initially, it will not show any problems. Will it be sending error codes even though the CEL is not coming on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Maybe this will help

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/war..._129671/tm.htm

Sounds very similar!

 

Thanks Trickster. I had actually read that one and it didn't really provide anything new. I can still hear my fuel pump even when it is hot and won't start so I know it isn't the main fuel relay or pump.

 

You should check for error codes. That might give you a hint of the problem.

Lack of fuel initially would point toward the fuel supply. It is harder to test compared to testing for spark. Does the fuel pump turn on for two seconds when you turn the key to the II position (when it is not starting)? If so, then suspect the main fuel relay.

Just to be thorough, get (or borrow) a timing light and hook it up to an ignition wire. When trying to start the car, see if the light flashes. If it does, then the spark is fine.

 

It may be your keyswitch has a fault that is preventing power to the distributor. This would account for no rpm's and no-start. Also keyswitch faults are relatively frequent problem in Accords of all vintages. When no-startis presentcheck the Blk/Yel wire at the distributor connector for 12V w/ keyswitch at ON. Zero voltage would indicate a bad keyswitch contact. Relatively easy repair.

Have you checked for fuel pressure when you have no-start? A quick, crude test is to crack the bleeder bolt. If you get a substantial spray of fuel, you're probably OK w/ fuel pressure. If nothing or a dribble, you've got a fuel supply issue somehow.

good luck

 

Thanks PAHonda and TexasHonda. Both replies are helpful and give me new items to test.

PAHonda, the fuel pumps is working all the time now. I can hear it even on non-starts. Will there be error codes even though the CEL is not coming on?

TexasHonda, I will check fuel pressure next time it won't start although I will have to look for the bleeder bolt since I don't know where that is. I assume it is on the fuel rail somewhere?

 

I believe bleeder bolt is on top of driver's side fuel rail. If no bleeder bolt, crack the hose/rail connector banjo bolt. A rag should be used to prevent gas spraying everywhere. You'll know if fuel pressure is a problem.

good luck

 

Update - Making no progress.

Unfortunately it has cooled off significantly here so the problem has faded to the background a bit. When it is cold, it doesn't die. There is probably a message in that.

When it does die now, I get about 2 minutes before it cools down enough to check stuff. Here is what I have checked and found:

1- Immediately upon dying, I put the timing light on the spark plug wire and I get flashes when I crank the motor. I also checked the yellow/black wire to the dist and I get a 12v read with key in the II position.
2- I cracked the bleeder bolt on the fuel rail and quite a bit of fuel sprayed/poured out. I did this right after it quit without it running. Is that the way to test it?
3- I took it to Autozone and they could not find the OBD hookup point. Anyone know where it is on a 95 accord? He did say that if the CEL is not on, it will not read any faults. My CEL has never been on during this whole process.

What can I test next? When it gets hotter again, it stays dead for about 5-10 minutes so I can test things better.

 

"2- I cracked the bleeder bolt on the fuel rail and quite a bit of fuel sprayed/poured out. I did this right after it quit without it running. Is that the way to test it? "
Response: Yes, that is correct. Looks like fuel pressure may not be your problem, if this test was performed when a no-start condition was present.

"3- I took it to Autozone and they could not find the OBD hookup point. Anyone know where it is on a 95 accord? He did say that if the CEL is not on, it will not read any faults. My CEL has never been on during this whole process."
Response: I don't think 95 Accord was OBD2 compatible, and if CEL is OFF there are no codes unless CEL is out. Does it come on during starting? If yes, no codes are present to be accessed.

A good test for both spark and fuel is to spray starter fluid or throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while cranking engine. If engine starts and runs momentarily, then fuel supply is the problem and not spark. If it won't kick over at all, then spark is either missing or inadequate to light off fuel. This has happened before and leads to much grief. Spark is weak, but present. I thought the timing light flashing was a good spark indicator. It worked for me once, and has worked for at least one other person.

You should also geta noid light to check that ignitors are being opened by ECU when no-start occurs.

Check distributor cap and rotor for cracks. It might be that crack opens as engine warms allowing spark to short, but recovers when cooler.

good luck

 

Texas meant to get a noid light to check injectors. You verified that you have at least some fuel pressure at the rail, but that doesn't mean that the injectors are opening up. The noid light will verify that.

http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo has a section for CEL codes. You accord requires the paperclip test. It also has pdfs of a shop manual for a 94 accord (same as your accord).

The timing light flashing means that there is adequate spark getting to the spark plugs. Are the spark plugs in good shape?