Whenever "ebay" is used as an adjective, that part becomes suspect. I'd focus very heavily on that FPR until it can be positively ruled out.

HKS adjustable FPR's go for about $165. A Blox one from ebay cost $30 .... no-name for $20. Think about it.

 

Idle cold is about 1500 and when fully warmed is a little low at 650-700 and a tad rough. I don't know what either of these items are or where they are located. Is there info somewhere on location and a how-to? Thanks as always for your continued help.

 

For clarification, the FPR I purchased on ebay was a used factory one and I know it is suspect. I simply don't have the tools to check it. As a partial check, I think I am going to put my old one back on and see if my stall time increases back up to 5-10 minutes instead of 1. That might be a good indicator and narrow the problem down.

 

The low idle speed combined w/ hot engine and AC load might lead to stalling when you come to a stop from high speed. There is DIY guidance on cleaning IACV (idle problems). If you need help just ask. This is easy DiY and all you need is throttle body cleaner and a paper towel. Try to clean the valve movement as well as the screen. Clean the throttle plate and bore also. Dirt around the throttle plate can restrict air flow.

You could have a combination of problems; perhaps Fast Idle Valve stuck closed.

good luck

 

I reread the whole post, since a lot of tests have been done.

I think there are some basic things that you need to do:

1. Check that the battery and alternator cables are clean and secure at all ends.
2. Do a compression test on the engine. Remove fuel pump fuse and make sure that the distributor and coil are unplugged.
3. Replace the spark plugs (check the condition when you remove) with NGK V-power plugs (s NGK ZFR5F-11). You should do this when doing the compression test.
4. When the car is running, spray a mist of water over the spark plug wires (at night) and look for the spark jumping.

 

Cleaned out the IACV this morning and then drove the car for about 15 minutes. Every time I rev the engineand it drops back down the idle it will drop clear to 200-300 rpm and then come back up to about 600 or so and thats where it stays. This is lower than it was before. Fast idle when cold was also only 1200 or so instead of the 1500 previously. No stalling issues but today is much colder and I don't think it will stall today. Is something stuck or jammed inIACV that broke loose when I cleaned? Or, is this pointing to my problem?

PAHonda: We just cleaned all terminals, etc.
Replaced spark plugsa couple of weeks agoand they looked old but no telltale signs of issues.
I will do this mist thing and check for compression today also.

 

Pulled the ICAV again and recleaned; put back together and same issues. Sprayed carb and choke cleaner in the throttle body while revving and now I am back to my preclean state where idle is around 700 and it doesn't drop on revs.

However...

Car is very warm at this point due to all the idling and revving so I hop in and literally drive the car 15 feet to the front of my garage, push in the clutch and it dies. Down for 60 seconds, try 4-5 times and then it starts back up. Go in reverse the 15 feet, no die; rev a few times and it doesn't die; pull 15 feet forward again and it dies. I can mimick this over and over. Never dies while idling or revving while standing still. Only on forward motion and coming to a stop while the car is fully warmed up.

Is there ANY sensor in the fuel system related to the transmission that might cause this? It is just too coincidental to me that I can replicate the issue every time.

 

Your descriptions suggests starving for air; either IACV, ports or something is temporarily starving engine of air. Have you confirmed the IACV is working; check w/ 12V that solenoid is moving the valve to open position and closes when voltage removed. IACV works by rapidly moving valve open, then releasing to spring-closed position. This happens several times per second. A broken or badly clogged valve might stick closed causing air starvation. W/ throttle plate closed, this and the FIV (cold engine only) are the only air paths.

good luck

 

The IACV checks out fine. Opens and closes.Plus I don't think it is starving for air because many times coming to a stop I have pulled it into neutral and tried to keep it revved around 2000 or so and as I come to a stop it will still die. I am pretty sure that by revving, I am opening the air passage so that it would not be cutting off all air. Did that make any sense?

I am leaning more toward the fuel pressure regulator but I am unsure how to proceed. I have checked a number of auto parts stores and none of them sell a fuel pressure guage or tester that I have found. Further, my dilemma is that my downtime is literally only 30 seconds and I am assuming I am going to get a normal read any time EXCEPT when I am in a no start situation. Is there any way to pull the fuel pressure regulator and test it individually? I don't know how to test it otherwise.

BTW - I did do the mist spraying while dark and there was no sparks or arcing that I could see.

 

I have never heard of a fuel pressure regulator causing engine stoppage. It may happen, but it must be extremely rare.

Your earlier description of idle speed sagging to 200-300 rpm when you come to a stop and then recovering suggests lack of air, however if you can't stop engine dying w/ throttle, air flow doesn't seem likely.

Does Check Engine Light light for 2 secs and then cut off when keyswitch is turned to ON?

I suggest trying a "tell-tale" light to determine whether fuel pressure loss due to loss of supply power or ignition power loss is causing your problem. One light could be rigged to fuel pump power supply line and a 2nd light to the blk/yel ignition power supply to the distributor. I rigged one for my fuel pump problem by crimping a fold splice around the power supply line and grounding a wire to the body. I ran wire through rear seat back (let down) to front pax seat where driver could see the light. It may be easier to rig to the blk/yel wire near the distributor and simply tape the light to the exterior of the windshield.

good luck