Hi guys. I've been in the Honda world for the past 6 or so years, always with civics. But I just picked up a 95 cd7 with the f22b1 5speed for $300. The day after I got it home I had it running and the next day I drove it around for 30mins or so. But now it won't start again, it will walk itself across the yard if left in gear while trying to start(the neutral safety switch in the ignition has been bypassed by previous owner). When bought it I was told it may need a fuel pump but the previous owner didn't even know what engine was in it so I wasn't too sure about the fuel pump and I had it running without even replacing anything. But like I said, now it will crank but won't start and I don't feel like draining/dropping the gas tank if I don't have to (it has 3/4 tank). I don't hear the fuel pump when turning the key. But before I drop the tank, any ideas on what else it could be? Thanks in advance

 

Not sure whether the fuel pumps are more quiet than Civics, but you probably know to turn off blowers & other noisemakers. Since the pump doesn't run, you want to rule out any fuses or wiring issues, also rule out the main relay.

You can do all of that by checking for power at the fuel pump. If the one wire is hot, then check whether the ground wire is open. I don't remember whether that year has an access panel to reach the fuel pump wires from the trunk or the back seat.

If the hot wire is not getting power, then you'll have to check whether its from the main relay vs. a fuse vs. an open wire somewhere along the way.

This time of year, a common thing is bad solder joints in the main relay. Very hot interior aggravates this, it might work after opening up doors etc to allow the relay (near the hood-release lever) to cool off. (is this the same in the Civic world?)

 

From what I've read, 4th and 5th gen accords are the only Hondas ever made that don't have an access door to the fuel pump.

And yes I know to have all noise makers off while listening. And to be honest with you I've never had a main relay issue before, so to be honest with you I didn't know where it was until you just said it.

Last time I had it running I could loosen the nut on the end of the fuel rail and it would push gas through pretty efficiently. Now if I do that almost nothing comes out. But that doesn't rule out the main relay or the fuel pump so looks like I'm gonna drain the tank and drop it and change the pump. If it doesn't fix it then I'll do the main relay.

So far this accord is no different from the older civics I used to have. (It's completely different from my 09 Si though) lol

I'll keep you updated on what happens. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

Measuring the voltage going to the fuel pump is very easy and may save you from replacing a working fuel pump. There is an access panel in the back of the trunk near the rear seat. Remove it, then check for power to the blk/yel to ground (or yel wire) when you turn the key to the II position. You should have about 12V for a few seconds. If you don't get voltage, your problem is likely upstream electrically from the pump.

 

I went thru this about 3 or 4 months ago on my new to me 97 Accord. The pump on these cars is very quiet. I even dropped the tank and replaced mine with a new Denso pump (it's even more quiet). That didn't fix mine though (the PO said he thought the pump was kaput). I spent almost a month tracing wires and checking everything, including the main relay (tested both in the car and out of the car). I even ran several tests on the ECU trying to find my problem.

Two things, if you have power to the pump, the relay is good. If the check engine light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes off, the relay is good. I did put a fuel pressure gauge on it, and had correct pressure that's needed for it to run (45-48psi cranking, and 36-38 psi running). Note; this also tests the FPR.
If you haven't disconnected the battery yet, see if there are any codes stored. I learned about that afterward. There should be a test connector under the glove box lip, unless you've got a code reader (that plugs in behind the ashtray).

In the end, short answer in my case, the car wasn't getting 12 volts to the injector resisitor pack. I had an open wire to it that I never found. But bring 12 volts over to it and it fired right up and ran. I've already put over a 1,000 miles on it since fixing it.
I hope this helps.

 

My 5th gen has a panel you can remove to access the pump,,upper right corner of trunk..it is there,,good luck.

 

The 5th gen access panel in the trunk gets you to the fuel sending unit (gas gauge). You have to drop the tank to access the pump.

 

But the access panel DOES give you access to the fuel pump wires so you can check voltage & ground, right??

 

Yes, the wiring harness for fuel pump passes through the trunk access panel.

Some time ago, I wrote a description of fuel pump replacement.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...acement-10834/

Nothing surprising, but access is tough w/o a lift. Lots' of scurrying around under the car.

good luck

 

try checking the fuel pump fuse on driver side kick panel it's 15amp fuse it's a possibility that it may have blown if the previous owner rigged up the neutral safety switch