96 Accord 4cyl non vtec - Trying to change my timing belt and can not get the bolt off the crank shaft pulley. We jammed the fly wheel with a large screw driver and used a 3/4 breaker bar with 4' cheater pipe and all it did was brake the 3/4 to 1/2 step down socket. Only had a 1/2 drive 19mm socket. Then we hit it with an air impact wrench with 150 psi. No budge.


What should we do?


Was going to pick up a 3/4 drive 19mm socket to use with the 3/4 breaker bar, but not sure if it will matter because the damn thing just doesn't seem to move.

 

You're in good company. Many DIY'rs including myself have run into this problem. I have found that applying heat (propane/butane torch) to the bolt head for 2-3 mins will help an impact or 1/2" breaker bar w/ cheater pipe break the bolt loose.

An air impact must have > 500 ft-lbs capacity to have any chance. Many 1/2" air impacts are rated well under 500 ft-lbs. The 3/4x1/2 reducer is the weak line w/ a 3/4 drive x 19mm socket. I have found a high quality 1/2" breaker bar to work better.

Besides a good, stout air impact, you should use a 19mm impact socket w/o any extensions to break the bolt.

Lot's of good youtube videos on this subject.

good luck

 

Big Bertha says that bolt is a puny girly-man, and laughs at it.

 

Will heating the bolt up ultimately mess the seal up?

 

I used propane heat on my 03 Acura MDX to enable breaking bolt loose w/ 1/2" air impact (ingersol rand rated at 500+ ft-lbs). No leaks after 2 yrs.

Heat is frequently used to assist breaking crankshaft pulley bolt. I have seen others worry about crankshaft seal, but if you can't break w/ breaker bar or impact, you need some help. Crankshaft is a very large heat sink and temps likely don't get any hotter than operating temps, however I did not measure any temp rises (inaccessible) so don't know for sure.

More powerful air impact (eg Big Bertha) is only other option. Harbor Freight sells a 3/4" air impact for < $100 w/ 1000 ft-lb rating. That should do the job w/o heat.

good luck

 

When I did mine I put the spare tire on turned the wheel as far as it would go to the outside to get access to the pulley. Then used a long extension and a short one rested the extension on a jack stand further out. Then used a breaker bar and a 5 ft steel pipe around the breaker bar. Put on some padded clothes goggles and started rocking away it moved pretty quick. The jack stand lets you rock and put all your weight on it.

You could just take it to a shop and have then loosen and re-tighten it to spec. You should be able to get it off then.

 

In regards to taking it to a shop, the timing belt broke at a very slow speed so the car is not moving. I did tow it to my mech. house but he didn't have a 3/4 impact, however my boss's dad used to run a truck fleet and he has an electric one I'm going to borrow along with the 19mm socket. Hope not to have to use heat but I will if it has to happen. By the way the engine checks out to the best of our knowledge to be fine and nothing seems to be bent or binding, fingers crossed

 

Suggest a compression check at some point. Bent valves will leak and prevent comrpession on damaged cylinder. You would be very lucky if you avoided damage.

good luck

 

I always used this method with 1/2 impact extensions, 1/2 19mm impact socket, and the Honda Crank Tool that you can rent from part stores. Also, place a jack stand underneath where the extension and breaker bar meet. I have used this method on about 15 Honda/Acuras, no issues.

 

Very nice thats almost exactly what I did. The only difference was I put the spare tire on and turned the wheel to one side that allows the extension to come straight out. I had enough force on the bar to move the car which made me nervous using a jack stand.