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96 Honda Accord LX - Terrible Gas Mileage?

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  #1  
Old 07-02-2011, 03:44 PM
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Default 96 Honda Accord LX - Terrible Gas Mileage?

So i've probably filled up my tank a solid 6 times since buying the car and i've noticed a trend. I get about 13 gallons per tank, and only end up lasting about. 280 Miles before I have to fillup due to my gas light being on for 5-10 miles.. Now im wondering, how is this possible? I drive about 70% highway, and 30% City. I never speed, never gun the RPM's, and unless its rush hour im always using cruise control at 65MPH. How am I getting 21MPG in a 96 Accord? I was under the impression I would ATLEAST be getting somewhere between 28-30MPG. Yet im nowhere close. Has anyone else had this happen before? And if so, what can I do to improve my gas mileage.

(I have 20" rims wrapped in low profile Hankook tires, not sure if this plays a part in my MPG but incase it does)

I also recently replaced all 4 spark plugs, and PCV Valve, as well as seafoamed the engine, and added fuel injector cleaner.
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:50 PM
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Use a tire size calculator to figure out the difference in overall circumference between the stock tire and the 20" tire.

That can affect the number of miles you are actually driving vs what the odometer says.
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:24 PM
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Just checked a tire calculator site and this is what i found

"Speedometer reading with non-stock tires is 4.6% too slow, when your speedo reads 60mph, you are actually traveling 62.7Mph". So thats not much of a speed difference, 3mph. do you think this would effect my gas mileage?

Checked a 2nd tire size calculator and that told me I was 2.1MPH slower when my speedo says 60mph. which is 3.467% too slow.
 

Last edited by poynterandy; 07-02-2011 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:35 PM
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Keep in mind that your gas mileage is 4.6% better.

Does the check engine light ever turn on? Parts stores can connect a scanner on your 96. The connector is behind the ash tray.

Make sure the tire pressure is correct. Do you have a lot of stuff in the car that would add extra weight?

You may want to check the brakes. The caliper slide bolts can get bound up and cause a loss in gas mileage.
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:07 PM
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No, the check engine light has never came on since ive bought this car (a month+ ago). Ill check out the brakes sometime soon.
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:21 PM
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Since you just bough the car and don't know the history, I would replace the distributor cap and distributor rotor. I like OEM honda parts for the ignition components. The price difference isn't enough for me to justify aftermarket.

Does the car get to operating temperature pretty quickly? Does the temperature gauge in the car remain at the same level (~ 33% on the scale?).
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:28 PM
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I'll go ahead and chang the cap and rotor. And no, the temp gauge actually takes its time getting up to temperture. I'd say about.. 15 minutes and its at the 33% mark, which is where it stays at throughout the duration of the car ride. Sometimes up to 2 hours of continuous driving and it doesnt go above the 33% range.
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:49 PM
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I see you are in Arkansas (I can see your IP address as a mod). Your car shouldn't take that long to get to operating temperature, since it is hot out right now.

The air/fuel ratio is determined, in part, by the coolant temperature. I would probably get a thermostat at the dealership. That is one item I would not get from a parts store. Change the coolant while you are at it. Search zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube for an excellent video how to fill and bleed air from the system.

You can also rent a pressure test for the radiator from most parts stores that has a bunch of adapters. One will fit on your radiator neck with the cap removed, and the other will fit on the cap. You want to be sure that the radiator can hold around 15 psi. The cap should be able to hold pressure too. Here is another YouTube video that shows how to do pressure test. Search hUzOTnsWImI
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:11 PM
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I'm willing to bet those 20" rims are about 300 pounds more than your stock wheels.

That is your problem. The engine is under a continuous added strain lugging those big shoes around.

I would sell the 20s and pick up a good set of 16s 17s at the biggest. Look for lightweight designs.

Your mpg will be in your expectations if you do this.

I'm sticking with stock size 15s, my suspension and transmission love me for this

Good luck.
 
  #10  
Old 07-02-2011, 08:22 PM
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@PaHonda - I am actually not from Arkansas Lol, I dunno what IP you're seeing :P I live in Independence, Missouri. The weather has been about 80-85F the past week, and realisticly takes about 5 minutes to get to the 33% Range. Not sure if this changes anything from your previous post but I will do some research on a thermostat for my car. Funny you should say that about the radiator coolant, because I just flushed and refilled 3 days ago. (Flushed until clear water was coming out). I also had my AC recharged 2 weeks ago at a garage. (Vacuum pumped out for 30 minutes, then fully recharged with AC coolants).

@Tek, you probably are right. I've been debating on just where I would go to find a cheap pair of steelies/tires at. I was thinking a junkyard or ebay for the steel rims, and just buy new tires. But im still in the investigation phase for the wheels.

Thanks for all your guys help, Im replacing the Distributor cap and rotor as we speak. Will let you know how that goes.

Get back to me on what I said above PaHonda, your information so far has proven useful
 


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