Good day all!

Just purchased some EMPI axles online for my 97 Accord. Going to replace them tomorrow.

Was wondering if there are any tricks to make the job easier. A few I was told were to heat up the wheel/axle nut for easier removal. Also if you lift only one side up at a time, you do not loose much tranny fluid, and do not have to drain it all out.

If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts about this job, let me know.

Thanks

 

The axle nut should come off easily, assuming you have a 36mm wrench or 36mm socket with a strong breaker bar. I've never needed to heat it, just stood on it.

Also, never had tranny fluid leak out when I popped the axles out... both AT and MT.

I've found it to be easiest to remove the bolt in the bottom of the strut fork, pop the ball joint out of the steering tie rod and swing the entire knuckle out. Works fairly well, and there's less junk to reassemble in the end.

Last but not least, check and double check you have the axles fully seated in the transmission. There should be an audible click. Otherwise, you'll likely drain the fluid down the road and damage an axle or two.

 

Finch,

Thanks for your help and suggestions on this job.

Replaced both axle shafts today, not that difficult with the exception of removing the shaft 36 mm nuts.

Broke one 1/2 drive breaker bar on one side but did get it to loosen up. On the other side was tough, ended up cutting the nut and shaft off with a Metabo.

4 hour job total with most of the time getting those nuts off. Glad I did it myself and saved a few $$$$$.

I would rather have been doing some "wedding crashing" today! LOL

 

next time go to home depot and get a $9 4-5ft pipe and put that on the end of your breaker bar then stand on that. Thats how I got my axle nuts off. Just make sure its a breaker bar with lifetime warranty.

 

good idea too!

 

The axle shaft job went well after getting the outer shft nuts off.

No it looks like the drivers side axle seal is leaking some, probably when I removed or installed the new shaft.

Is it recommended to replace these seals when replacing the shafts, or is it only something you mess with if they end up leaking.

Also if I do the job over and replace the seals, are they hard to remove or install....any special tools?

Thanks!

 

I would change the seals anytime you pull the axles, just because they are so cheap and easy to change.

To change them, pry the old ones out with a screwdriver, being careful not to scratch the bore that the seal sits in, then find a socket slightly smaller than the seal and tap the new seal in with the socket and a small hammer.

Also be careful not to damage the seals when putting the driveshafts back in.

 

thanks, I'll continue to monitor fluid loss and maybe change out the seals.

 

I know I'm posting to an old thread, but after doing a search it is the closest I can find to what I'm dealing with right now. I'm replacing the driver's side driveshaft on my '97 I4 auto, and I also had a heck of a time with the 36mm axle nut. Broke a breaker bar getting it loose, but finally did. My problem now is with the new installation. I'm not having much luck getting the spring clip to pop in. It seems difficult to get enough inward force on the shaft to get it to seat. Is there some sort of trick to this? My search hasn't revealed anyone else having this problem, although I have read about some folks having the shaft pop out after reassembly, so I assume they didn't get it seated properly. I've been thinking about possibly inserting the inboard end just enough to engage the splines, and then sliding the outer end into the hub/steering knuckle assembly, and then trying to sort of slam it in. It sounds like there could possibly be some downsides to this method, but it's late, I'm tired and frustrated, and don't have any other ideas. I'm hoping that someone sees this and can help me out.

Thanks.

 

Not uncommon to have problems. Remove shaft and clean the receiving groove, and lubricate ring/groove.

On one occasion, nothing seemed to work and I removed the old snap ring from the removed shaft and swapped to new shaft. Shaft then popped right in and "clicked" in place.

good luck