well im not having as much luck as everyone, i have broken 3 breaker bars and had to go back to autozone to get the lifetime warrenty to get a new one. but the problem remains....the half shaft nut is still there and not going anywhere. any suggestions

 

Did you try the ~5ft piece of pipe over the breaker bar as suggested from a previous post? Did you pry the tabs back on the nut?

An impact wrench would get it to loosen up if you have air tools.b

 

I normally drive a nail or something in where the nut is staked into that groove of the axle. If you get that out, it'll help immensely.

 

I also broke a 27in. breaker bar working on that 36mm nut. I heated it with a torch, put a 4ft. extension over the bar...nothing seemed to work. Finally I decided to get an impact wrench, as several of my friends told me that's what I needed. I don't own or have access to a compressor big and powerful enough that it would allow for an air impact wrench to create enough torque, so I checked out electric versions. None of them (that I could afford) were powerful enough to do the job. I decided to buy a manual impact wrench, since I've always wanted one and they only cost about $25 at Sears. I thought there was little chance it would work, but much to my surprise (after smacking the hell out of it for about 15 minutes), I felt that nut slightly move. It still took a good amount of force on my new replacement breaker bar, but that nut came loose.

I'm one of those folks who agree that getting that axle nut loose was by far the most difficult part of this job.

 

i do have air tools and i have already tried the impact....it didnt budge! i have bent the tab back out and all that. i got to thinking about it and i came up with an idea but there are risks.........

put the car on a jack, have the socket on the breaker bar with my cheater pipe and lay it on a jack stand and lower the jack using the weight of the car to break it loose. but i can either round off the nut or another breaker bar and damage the fender in the process..........so im still debating

 

As you lower the car, you're applying that torque to the differential. If that breaks, you're in worse trouble. More likely it'll just cause the engine to rotate.

With your method, you want to lock the brakes from rotating. Take an old screwdriver & stick it into a vent at the outside edge of the rotor, so that it bears up against the caliper & prevents the rotor from turning. For locking the rotor, that's better & stronger than your axle & differential.

Your impact tools....
Are you using an extension before the socket? That reduces torque.
Are you using a deep socket? That reduces torque.
Are you using a really long hose? That too, to some extent.

Idea:
Find a nearby shop with big BIG powerful air tools, & have them break the nut loose. Then tighten it, but don't overtighten it, don't stake it. Then back home it'll be much easier to remove.

 

vltjr,

I never know there is a manual impact wrench. Could you give me the model number or the link on sears website? I want to buy one too.

Thanks!

 

CRZ1-- I'm not sure whether this will insert a link or just the url, but here it is:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...47641&sLevel=0

I had a heck of a time finding it at my local Sears; the first two sales guys who helped me had no idea what I was talking about.

 

I got mine at a local hardware store. I've seen them in Harbor Freight's catalog. Maybe even AutoZone or places like that??

 

vltjr,

Got it. Printed from your link and will visit sears.

Jim,

I bought an impact driver from Harbor Freight. It does not have 1/2 in drive for a socket. Not sure it has other similar type, will check also.

Thanks a lot!