...Ok so I'm not exactly new here, Ya'all were a great help when I first got this accord in determining if I had a blown headgasket (it did) and I'm hoping ya'all can give me some insight on this as well.

Old lady was heading down to the gas station and heard a pop and the car died and won't restart. Drag it home and check spark. it's good. didn't sound like any compression and pulled the valve cover off and sure enough the cam gear isn't turning... so it looks like I get to spend my 4th trying to do a timing belt as I report for my first day of work at a new job monday...

anyhow any tips tricks or otherwise I should be aware of? tips of how to get it back in time since the motor has been cranked and the cam gear hasn't moved?

Thanks in advance.

:chug:

 

You shouldn't have good spark if the cam is not moving unless the distributor is stuck on the #1 cylinder.

If the timing belt broke and you still cranked the engine, the valves in the cylinder head are likely bent. Replacing the timing belt alone will likely not fix the problem.

 

Is there a way to check if the valves are bent without pulling the head?

I'd hate to have to re-do the freaking headgasket.

We've cranked it over a bit, not much, but enough to diagnose, cranks like it's got no compression. It broke at low rpm if that matters at all... she was just pulling out of the drive when it let go...

:chug:

 

IMHO, you'd be in the 1% if there are no bent valves.

You can put a new belt on and then check for compression. Be sure to check the "idlers" as it seems strange that a new belt would "snap" so soon.

 

No unfortunately the belt wasn't new... funds did not permit a new one when we did the headgasket... between the ex-wife and the state ganging up on me for child support 3x the average, they've kept me pretty poor. lol I've finally got it lowered to a reasonable amount, but not until they totally jakked my cdl putting me out of work for 2 years, I start a new gig monday which is why I'm in such a panic over this... lol

So worst case, I should just either get new/used head or have current one re-done provided there is no piston damage. Right?

Many thanks for the input guys, I truly appreciate it.

 

anyone have a link to procedures on the timing belt replacement? we've got it tore down, cover off, and now we're staring at a idler/tensioner with another belt on it...

Also... since the belt was broken, do I have to pull the motor mount to get the new belt on??? it's looking like I have to but we're not quite there yet just trying to think ahead...

Edit: it's become clear we are going to have to pull that motor mount... :bang:


:chug:

 

In the common DIY and Info Thread - sticky at the top of this section, there is a link to a service manual for a 94 Accord - the steps are the same so you will be fine using it as a how to.

There are also some "youtube" video's floating around that might help as well.

How did the new job go?

 

New job is going great. Little embarrassing getting out of a miata and stepping into a 80 ton (empty) 2 story truck...

Pretty sure I've got the cam and crank timed, now I just gotta figure out the balance shaft. All the links and vids I find say it covers this motor, but they show something different... either missing the balance shaft or the tensioner is totally different... I'll look thru the thread you mentioned and see what I find.

:chug:

 

Glad the new job is working out....I gave up a long time ago caring about what people thought about me and the cars I drive....just the other day I had things to do...so in like a four hour time period I drove a 78 F150, 89 Accord, 07 Pilot and the 16 Pilot...meaning I drive a $400 to a 40K "car" in a flash....and I still love the stick in the 89 Accord

Anyway, for the balance shaft belt there is a "lock bolt" on the backside of the engine. Need to remove a bolt and then find the "point" where you can "lock" the rear balance shaft with a punch/screwdriver/drill bit....once you lock that, get the front shaft lined up and then go for it.

 

...And it's back together, seemingly no worse for wear... Exhaust still rattles to beat the band, and the #1 cylinder exhaust is noisy due to both manifold studs are snapped still, but the valvetrain seems to sound fine. I haven't gone all kamikaze with the rpms yet, but check engine light was on and the same old rear o2 code is tripped (still haven't gotten a new one) but nothing else...

I think I may have actually lucked out... this will be a first.

I found a couple of videos that helped espically with

...and now I've officially cursed myself. :doh:

We tensioned the belts ourselves, rather than try to do it the way the book says, most said that it was noisy and shaky doing it the books way.

Here are 2 videos that helped alot... wish I knew spanish for the 1 but the video makes things clear...
https://youtu.be/b_F-YLZk2tI

https://youtu.be/9TMR9PG3fko