I have a couple problems...

1. When I try to start my honda it wont turn over. I live in Michigan and it has been cold since my problems arose. When I start the car it struggles to start., sometimes it wont start until I pump the gas pedal a dozen times. Some days it starts right away and others it takes a couple minutes.

2. While driving at any speed my RPM gage goes nuts. It bounces sometimes and others it will stay at 0 rpm even when Im cruising at 80 mph. This doesn't always happen , but it seems to have increased in the past 6 months. My car speed stays the same but the gage has a mind of its own......while on the highway today the rpm gage started to bounce, for the first time it felt like my car was slightly affected by whatevers going on.

3. I bought my honda used, the prior owner had a security system installed. The previous owner had problems with the security system and told me that it no longer worked. There are some wires hanging by the pedals and I presume they were for the security system. There is also a switch installed hanging from those wires (it looks like the previous owner had extra lights installed or something)....I was thinking the wiring problems could be affecting my RPM gage??

Any help is much appreciated...

97 honda accord v6

 

Welcome to the forum!

1. First, NEVER pump the gas on a fuel injected vehicle. There is no point and its not the best for it. Most likely you need a new battery since its been worse in the cold. Batterys are affected by the cold by not being as powerful, so slow cranks are common. However, cranking and cranking trying to start your car is hard on the start and will cause premature failure. So you need to buy a new battery. The more Cold Cranking Amps the battery has is the better.

2. Sounds like your speed sensor is failing. Common problem. There are two fixes depending on what the problem is. Either you may need a whole new gauge cluster ($$$$$$$$) or more likely you need a new speed sensor which is much less expensive. I THINK it is called the VSS. Double check though. And let us know if your cruise control works when the gauge is working. Such as when the cluster is working or not. This can confirm it.

3. Most likely the wires are not affecting your gauge. But make sure those hanging wires are not bare or stripped. I would cover each one with electrical tape and then secure them to something so they cant get caught. You dont want those wires to short something out.

 

I would disagree that tachometer swings indicate VSS fault. VSS failure is indicated when speedometer has wildswings.

More likely, the ignitor, coil, and sparkplugs are the fault. It could be one or more of these components. Check the DIY procedures for distinguishing between ignitor and coil.

It's possible that wiring faults might cause or contribute to your problem. I would suggest removing the security device and all associated wiring.

good luck

 

thanks for the quick response....Im going to get a new battery today and see what happens.

I'm also going to take my car into circuit city in the next couple weeks to get the security system removed.

I'll repost tonight with more information

 

I assumed the security system was already removed since you said there are wires hanging that were for the security system.

If the previous owner has the receipt for the alarm and it is from best buy or circuit city they will take it out for free.


Just a question TexasHonda, if the sparkplugs, or coils were the cause of the tach bouncing wouldnt they actually be causing the engine speed to fluctuate? I cant see how they could make the needle bounce without having the rpm actually changing too. Im pretty sure the VSS does both rpm and speed.

 

VSS does speed.

On the V6 (95-97) accords the tach signal comes from the coil. The tach signal comes from the ICM on 4 cyl Accords with a distributor.

 

I would go with the other two's recommendations. They seem to have a better understanding!

Anyways, good luck and let us know how it turns out!

 

yeah, it's a known problem. the vss goes through the ignition coil and it does fail, causing intermittent tach problems.

it may also be the cause of your first problem, but i'm not sure. pumping the gas pedal won't do anything to the car. but holding it halfway or all the way to the floor while starting it changes the air:fuel ratio to a very lean ratio to clear a flood.

 

thank you for everyone's knowledge and response.

I had my battery replaced today and the old one tested. My old battery did have a bad cell....so mabey that was the problem. Everything seems to be normal while starting the car and she fires up right away. I've only started it a half dozen times since the new battery, so if I encounter the previous problems I will post again.

The tachometer still seems to be bouncing around.

I was reading a previous post and someone mentioned that Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts can check your car if the "check engine" light has gone off. Is this true and will they tell me whats wrong??? Also does the check engine light come on because of mileage or because the car noticed something wrong ??? I did just hit 100,000 miles which I believe triggered the "check engine" light.

One more problem for everyone........

A month ago (during winter) I rolled my driver side window down and it wont go back up. I took the door panel off, got the window fully up, and put a nail through factor holes to keep the window up. I'm pretty sure the window fell off track and when I use the electric window the motor sounds like it still works. Since its FREEZING outside I have't had much of a chance to get at it again. But I'm wondering how to fix it??? or if anyone has any advice



thanks Travis

 

I lied I have another issue.....

My last house had walnut trees in the parking area. Little did I know walnuts fall at 1000 mph and dent the **** out of cars.....


needless to say I have about 15 - 20 small dents, Paint is not harmed, dents are quarter size around, and not deep at all. There on my hood, roof, trunk, and quarter panels.

Its only cosmetic damage but I would love to have it fixed. I've heard that "home dent removers" are BS. What options do I have and if I do take it to a body shop what could I expect to pay????

Thanks again