I hope I am posting in the correct area.

I just purchased a 97 Accord Se 4 cylinder with the CEL on. The Code came up as P0132 'Bank 1 Sensor 1 02 heater circuit malfunction'.

I had a Bosch 02 sensor installed 3 days ago, but the light won't go out. They tested the new sensor and the ohms were in range (10-14 I think). There is 12 volts at the engine harness connector to the sensor.

We reset the ECU and the code came back within minutes. I have searched the internet for answers. So far I only found a thread about a Bosch sensor that didn't work and was replaced by a Denso that fixed the issue.

The car has 154K miles, runs fine but stalls once or twice when first started cold. After it runs for 15-30 seconds it is fine. Power is good and doesn't seem to hesitate or anything.

I really need help because I bought it 6 days ago and have 4 days left to get the NYS inspection done. They can't do that if the light is on.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Next step is to check resistance of O2 sensor heater from the ECM connector. Disconnect and ohm appropriate wires to check resistance. It should be same as obtained directly at sensor connector.

If you see open or short, you have a wiring defect that must be located and repaired.

If you see same resistance as first test, the ECM is bad and must be replaced.

good luck

 

Ouch, that sounds expensive. Thanks for the info. I will try to check that Monday.
P.S. If it is the ECM, can I buy on-line or does that have to be from Honda?

 

P0132 is primary oxygen sensor circuit high voltage. P0132 is not related to the heater control side.

The ECM/PCM is detecting voltage higher than .9 volts (900 millivolts) generated from the primary oxygen sensor.

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
3. Check the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) output voltage with the scan tool.
Does the voltage stay at 0.9 V or more?

YES - Go to step 4.
NO-Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. •

Check for poor connections or loose wires at the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) and at the ECM/PCM .

4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Disconnect the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) 4P connector.
6. Connect Primary H02S (Sensor 1) 4P connector terminals No.1 (Grn/Blu wire) and No.2 (Wht/Red wire) with a jumper wire.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
8. Check the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) output voltage with the scan tool.
Is there 0.9 V or more?

YES - Go to step 9.
NO-Replace the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) .•

9. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminals D7 and D11 with a jumper wire. (terminals D7 and D11 is at the 16-P gray Connector C461) -- Terminal numbering is counting from wire side of the female connector C461.
11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
12. Check the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) output voltage with the scan tool.
Is there 0.9 V or more?

YES-Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away replace the original ECM/PCM .•
NO-Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (D7) and the Primary H02S (Sensor 1) .•

 

If it is the ECM then yes you can find the many places, but they are specific to the type of car, so you will need the PN off yours and find one with the same PN.

 

whoa,

I just got my car done. it turned out to be a bad connection at the computer (floating ground).

Currently I do small engines. Kohler has efi engines. The #1 thing to check first is grounds! When a computer is involved, they work on micro volts. All it takes is a dirty ground that seems ok. This can save hundreds or more dollars!

Guys, thanks for the info.

P.S. I was getting ready to replace the computer! I found a great resorce on line: tomsforeign (dot) com. these guys strip cars to scrap and test and sell parts. My $1349 computer would cost $49.95 with 6 months guarantee and free ship! check them out, it seems like a great resorce!

thank again for your input. hope this helps someone else.

happy holidays.