Greetings,

I apologize in advance for not doing completely thorough searches, but I have done some cursory ones. *I am stuck using slow Internet in a remote area from a mobile device that makes it difficult to do anything online. *I also apologize for being so long winded, but I want to give you as much info as possible.. If necessary I can separate these into individual issues, but it would take for ever on my phone.

I am the new owner of a 1997 accord LX 2.2 5 speed. *153k miles.*

I have the owners manual, and I have PDF shop manual for a 1996. *Unfortunately, there is no computer here where I can access the PDF.

I have a few issues That I need to address. I'll try and give the best descriptions I can. *I have no history on the car *except new battery and tires. Brake and clutch fluid were both empty when i got it, yet both still worked. *They are now filled and working fine.

I have a good OBDII scanner with me, but I can't find the connector, *under the dash or under the hood. *Is this in fact an OBDII controlled car? *I was under the impression that from 1996and 1/2and newer, the feds required all gas passenger vehicles to be OBDII compliant. *

1. * What is the (warmed up) idle RPM supposed to be? *The car when idling is not idling (rough) as in missing or skipping. *It is idling "hard". *That is, it is very staccato when at idle. *When this is happening, the tach appears steady to be at 750 RPms. *It's hard to tell because of the gradations below 1000 rpm.

The car runs perfectly, plenty of power and no misses or skipping. *It is just an idle issue. *The idle is very steady, and the engine does not die, it just "buzzes"the interior, and feels like the car is on a vibrating pad. *If I press on the accelerator at all with any increase in RPMS the hardness/vibrations go away and everything is smooth.*

After *searching here, I found a post that said it may be the rear motor mount. I have not been able to get under it yet, but after putting it in 1st and reverse, and letting the clutch out slowly, the engine has very minimal "roll" to it. *I am not sure if this is a good test or not for the rear mount. *

What should the idle be, and what could/would affect it if it's *off? *Where is the OBDII connector if it has one?

The heater temp control was stuck. *Thanks to a post here, I was able to locate the temp valve and found the cable was bound up. *I sprayed some WD on it and worked it back and forth, and it freed up a little, but it doesn't have full range yet. *Only about 85%. *It is definitely the cable. *The valve itself operates freely. *How to I access the cable at the top, behind the actual control so I can lube it up or check for binding?

On the same subject. The HVAC diverter door is not fully functional. *It will send airflow to the dash vents, and to the defroster vents. *But it sends nothing to the floor on any setting, even thought the appropriate button is pressed and lights up. *Any thoughts on trouble shooting this?

The door locks have a mind of their own. *This is complicated to describe. When sitting in the car pressing the drivers lock switch, with all doors closed, the passenger rear door makes a cycling noise like a motor sound, and all doors clunk and attempt to lock. *It keeps making this noise several times *if trying to lock, and lock, and lock, and lock. It will keep doing this until I *press the switch up, then all doors unlock and activity stops. * The *passenger front and drivers rear, lock fine and unlock fine during this process. *If pressing the drivers door lock manually, not the switch but the actual button, there is binding. *It will not go down.*

If I do the same thing with the drivers door open and not sitting in the car, (as crazy as it sounds) it will do this same *cycle thing, until I press the switch up (drivers door still open) and then it stops (doors are unlocked). *If I do this 2 or 3 more times, from the inside door lock switch with the drivers door open, it will eventually lock all doors and stop the cycling sounds. *It is very (hit or miss).

The behavior is slightly different if doing this from the passenger door. *Not worth detailing here, just take it as (just as bizarre). *Using the key in the either door is also similar, and bizarre. *The symptoms are not consistent. *The only constant is that the passenger rear door is the one with some kind of "motor" sound in it. *The other doors sound normal. *Like they are actuated with a normal solenoid type of actuator. **

Any thoughts on troubleshooting this issue ?

So to summarize, *I am looking for info in troubleshooting the above issues.

1. Hard idle.
2. Where, if so equipped, is the OBDII connector?
3. *How can I further free up the HVAC temp control cable?
4. *How can I troubleshoot *the HVAC floor diverted issue?
5. *Door lock cycling.

Also, is there any way to check the timing belt for wear?
How can I reset the "maintenance indicator". **It appears to be a mechanical, not electrical indicator. *

Again, sorry for being long winded. *my internet access is very limited here.

Thank you very much in advance for your patience, I really appreciate any info you can give regarding these issues.*

Paul.../NH (temp in AZ)...

 

It's a lot to answer; but, I'll answer a few quickly:

1. The driver’s door lock operation is a normal Honda feature on the 5th generation Accord (i.e., 94-97), with the exception of the SE trim. To lock the driver’s door, pull the outside or inside handle and push the lock tab down, then release the handle.

2. See this thread which may be the cause of the door lock cycling.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...cycling-48713/

3. The Data Link Connector (DLC)/OBD II port is located behind the ashtray.

 

To reset maintenance indicator, insert the key in the slot near the indicator. See pic.

 

Red ill. Thank you very much for the replies. I will check these out and get back to you. Great pix....
Paul..../NH. In AZ temporarily.

 

Well I finally got the manual in a form I can use. Seems the idel is pretty much spot on. I am not which engine code I have. But all 4 of them list either 700 +- 50 or 770 +- 50 I believe I am steady at 750.

I am really wondering whet could be causing this "hard" idle. Going to try and get under it today if I can borrow some ramps or a jack and have a look-see at the rear motor mount.


Door locks. Seeing as how this is a car i am only going to use when i am visiting (5-6) times per year. I am not too concerned about all door locks functioning
properly. Anyone know if there is a way I can disconnect the right rear door lock and make it a "manual" lock? Either by mechanical linkage or electrically? I don't really need access to that door, and currently there is no means of securing the car when I go about my day. I can't lock all four doors.

I found the obdii connector (thanks Redbull). All set, no codes, I/M full ready.

Temp control cable looks like a pita to get at. Any tips or tricks?

Thanks.

Paul...

 

I took the door apart today. The little screw that holds the plastic cover on is a pain to find, and remove.

Anyway, it appears the rubber stopper is intact. But what I did notice, is that the actuator loop that actually trips he lock mechanism, moves freely back and forth.

I think the issue is with the plastic gears/clutch mechanism in the actuator itself. I hope that some can tell me, so that I don't have to take another actuator out for comparison.

You can look at the pictures and video here:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-9W...=sharing&pli=1

imgur: the simple image sharer

imgur: the simple image sharer

If you look at the pictures, you can see the small metal gear that drives the big white gear. That part works fine. What is happening is the white "circle" with the small plastic gear attached to it, that is on on top of the big gear, never engages to the big gear. I am assuming this is the problem. The motor spins the "driven" gear, but the driven gear never engages the upper white circle with the small plastic gear on it.

Thoughts?

Thanks. Paul...

PS Still trying to figure out the hard idle issue.

 

Your picture appears to only show one rubber stop or am I not seeing it from your pictures? There is suppose to be two, one for locking and one for unlocking.

 

Thanks for the reply. Look closely there are two stops. There is one where the red arrow on the pic is. They are both there. My main concern is the bottom driven gear not egaging with the top one. Take a look at the video. Thanks.

 

I don't know how that small gear is connected to the large gear.

If I had to guess, there are three cylindrical bushings that transfer the force between gears. This is just a guess based on my grandfather's chrysler lebaron headlight motor. The plastic pieces break due to age and wear out.

I never took mine apart when I had actuator problems on my accord. I just replaced with a new one. This was before forums had a lot of information on DIY repairs.

You best bet may be getting one from a junkyard.

 

From looking at your video and reading your description, the gear movement seems similar to the old working actuator I have. In other words, I still have the old actuator in my garage and the operations looks the same.