Check for codes again, since you had the IAC unplugged. Just want to make sure the PCM detected the P1519 or other IAC related codes.

It looks like the battery cable clamps are aftermarket. I've read that these could cause potential problems. Try measuring the voltage from the + battery post to where the + battery cable connects to the fuse box with the engine running. You should get close to zero volts. Do the same thing from the - battery post to the bolt that grounds the - battery cable to the sub-frame. You may have to clean the terminals to ensure a good contact.

I'm just trying to give you some simple tests, before having you look at the PCM.

You may want to clean up the G101 ground wire as well. It is bolted to the upper intake under the intake air temp sensor (IAT). Clean the eyelet and bolt with a wire brush or sandpaper.

 

Alrighty I'm going to pick up a better scanner tomorrow after work I will do the tests and get the codes and report back thank you so much

 

Sorry it's so late and took me so long to get back to you got stuck working 14 hours today anyways the ground g101 is good and clean when I check battery positive to the fuse box positive I get no volts same as the negative the codes I pulled are P0108 p0122 p1519 p0130 p0505 p0136 I had the mad unplugged and the tps and iac at one time but the oxygen sensor is new to me

 

I forgot something about the recommended voltage drop test. You need to try this while cranking the engine. You need the wire drawing current to see if you are losing voltage through a poor connection. My apologies.

Also, clear the codes. Get everything connected, then try to start the car. Then re-read the codes.

It is also not a bad idea to check the PCM fuses (or all of them). Clamp your test light to ground, then touch the pick to each tab on top of each fuse (key in the II position for this test). Both tabs on top should light up the test light if the fuse is good. If on side does not give you power, then pull that fuse an visually verify it is blown.

The test light method makes testing fuses very fast.

 

As far as a drop test do you want me to test it at the battery terminals ? hook up meter negative and positive on DC volts and read the standing voltage then the drop while cranking correct ?

 

You have 2 tests. Have meter on the + battery post and the + battery cable wire to the fuse box. Test 2 is from the - battery post to the - battery cable ground on the subframe.

You are measuring the voltage across a wire while it has current. If the wire is perfect, you will read 0V. If the wire has corrosion and restricted flow, then you will read a voltage across the wire.

 

Ok so from battery positive to fuse box I have 0 volts from negative on battery to body ground I have 0 volts I have 12.5 volts with vehicle off and it drops to 12 when cranking I've cleared the codes and the only one to return was p0505 I'm going to attach a picture as well of what the scanner says this was taken at idle

 

It seems my throttle position is at 9.4 at idle and the map pressure say 37.0kpa if that has any correlation to my issues and wide open with vehicle off throttle is 89.4 percent and with vehicle off manifold pressure is 91.0kpa?
thanks!

 

The MAP readings seem ok to me (5 psi at idle and 13 psi at WOT). Was you outside air temperature around 88F when doing this test?

The TPS may be normal. With the engine not running, slowly press the gas pedal and see if the TPS reading slowly increases.

Another simple item to try is go clean out the throttle body using throttle body cleaner. Remove the intake snorkel, and clean the inside of the throttle body bore, both sides of the throttle plate,and around where the throttle plate pivots.

 

It does increase gradually with engine running I took the whole intake off to check the gasket on it and replace it and it doesn't look to good in there but under the valve cover is fine ?