98 accord v6 warm idle problem
#1
98 accord v6 warm idle problem
Need some input here. There are no codes at all. The car runs fine, when driving, no dead spots at all throw out the rpm range, and it is also fine on stop and go traffic. I tested with everything off to everything on so there is load on the motor and it's fine.
Problem is it's hit and miss. Turn off the car then go do something and go start the car again. It starts fine but then goes way down to like 300 to 400 rpm, the car is shacking then stalls. It did this last winter a couple of times. but once it got warm out again it was fine. It's getting cold again and it's starting to do this again. It just did it yesterday, it stalled three times then it started to do it again when I started it the fourth time and just revved it up a little and then it was fine. What I figure it's is, is a sensor starting to go bad. Any thoughts on what one? a tps or a IAC Valve.
thanks
Problem is it's hit and miss. Turn off the car then go do something and go start the car again. It starts fine but then goes way down to like 300 to 400 rpm, the car is shacking then stalls. It did this last winter a couple of times. but once it got warm out again it was fine. It's getting cold again and it's starting to do this again. It just did it yesterday, it stalled three times then it started to do it again when I started it the fourth time and just revved it up a little and then it was fine. What I figure it's is, is a sensor starting to go bad. Any thoughts on what one? a tps or a IAC Valve.
thanks
#2
I would start by manually cleaning the throttle plate and with the car running spray throttle body cleaner into the IACV port inside the throttle body. There is no need to have the intake hose connected to the throttle body for this and you can manually rev the engine by Turing to throttle linkage to keep it from stalling while spraying out the IACV port. I would have to assume if you notice a difference then you are on the right track, however, if nothing changes I would be inclined to look at the intake gasket as a possible cause. I have to stress that the intake gasket is the least likely for cause of your issue, but it has happened...
#3
Many of the early 6th gen V6's had an issue with "vapor lock".
Drive the car until the engine gets to op temp....shut it off and about 10~15 minutes later you start it and it runs "ruff" for a few seconds....sometimes have to hold the pedal down to keep it running....then a few seconds later it clears up and runs fine. Seems to show up more in cold temps with the "winter blend" gas (winter blend seems to have a lower boiling point).
Honda issued a TSB where they tried a re-program/update to the PCM and a change to the FPR.
Others have gone to other methods....some got lucky with just changing the t-stat, even though there was no "seen" issue on the temp gauge they reported it "solved/helped" the issue. Some have gone as far as retro-fitting the fuel supply/rail system from an Oddy or newer model 6th gen v6.
Just me an my opinion but your issue sounds like the classic eary 6th gen v6 vapor lock issue.
Drive the car until the engine gets to op temp....shut it off and about 10~15 minutes later you start it and it runs "ruff" for a few seconds....sometimes have to hold the pedal down to keep it running....then a few seconds later it clears up and runs fine. Seems to show up more in cold temps with the "winter blend" gas (winter blend seems to have a lower boiling point).
Honda issued a TSB where they tried a re-program/update to the PCM and a change to the FPR.
Others have gone to other methods....some got lucky with just changing the t-stat, even though there was no "seen" issue on the temp gauge they reported it "solved/helped" the issue. Some have gone as far as retro-fitting the fuel supply/rail system from an Oddy or newer model 6th gen v6.
Just me an my opinion but your issue sounds like the classic eary 6th gen v6 vapor lock issue.
#6
Hey guys sorry for the delay, it's been crazy. Anyway poorman212 that sounds like what the problem is. It has happen to me like once, but this is my wife's car and she's flipping out at me to fix it.
10k ago, I did a hole system over hale, plugs, wires, ten. pulleys, timing belt, valve cover gas kits, pulled the tb and intake manifold off cleaned it all up and cleaned out the prg valve and replaced and installed an intake because the tub was all cracked and done. It was like night and day after I did the tune up. That's the first time in it's life the timing belt was changed The car has 160k on it. It dose not burn a drop of oil or leak, can't get better then that.
I was hoping it was a sensor going bad. but guess it's the normal honda issue.
I'll look more into this issue and see what I want to do.
Thanks guys
10k ago, I did a hole system over hale, plugs, wires, ten. pulleys, timing belt, valve cover gas kits, pulled the tb and intake manifold off cleaned it all up and cleaned out the prg valve and replaced and installed an intake because the tub was all cracked and done. It was like night and day after I did the tune up. That's the first time in it's life the timing belt was changed The car has 160k on it. It dose not burn a drop of oil or leak, can't get better then that.
I was hoping it was a sensor going bad. but guess it's the normal honda issue.
I'll look more into this issue and see what I want to do.
Thanks guys
#7
Well, the "cheap" thing to try is a new Honda T-stat. I've read one or two posts where the poster(s) replaced it with a new one and it seemed to lower the temp of the engine enough to stop/slow the issue.....yes, even though the car showed no signs of overheating the stat seemed to help ....it is a ~$20 try?
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12-19-2011 12:27 AM