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98 Power Window problems

  #1  
Old 06-10-2012, 07:58 PM
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Default 98 Power Window problems

Hey guys and gals, looking for some help with this problem..

98 Accord sedan w/ 4 cyl..Mom has had the car for some time with the problems and recently had given the car to my son. So he is driving it and I have been fixing things as I go. I just had to replace the ignition switch, as the car would keep stalling on him and the recall had already been done anyway..Next is to replace the rack and pinion, as it has went out ( changed pump a long time ago and didn't fix it)

So on to the window. I have tried to research with no luck and even tried the intermittent wiper trick (put the ring in the middle)..I have tried to troubleshoot it myself with the Haynes wiring manual and I get lost and honestly not that good with a voltmeter to know what i should read and when..

The drivers window does not work, nor do any of the other windows from the drivers switch. The "window lock" does work though..I can reach over to any other door and use the window as it should, but never anything from the drivers door. I had even purchased a whole switch unit from Honda and replaced it with no luck. I have looked at all the fuses and all good also..I was going to try and hotwire the window motor to see if it would work, but I noticed it has 4 prongs on the connecter to the motor?

Anyone have the slightest idea as to what would cause this?

Thanks for any help
 
  #2  
Old 06-11-2012, 06:00 PM
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Got a paperclip?

See pic of the pins for the drivers multiplex. Remove to connector and look at the wire harness

To make the drivers window go down. Jump A11 to A12 and A10 to A1.....let us know what happens...again the window should go down.
 
Attached Thumbnails 98 Power Window problems-6th-gen-dr-multiplex-window-pins.jpg  
  #3  
Old 06-11-2012, 06:14 PM
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Thanks poorman, i have alligator clip jumpers also

I take it that the drivers mulitiplex is the main driver door switch you are talking about? I know there are like 3 multiplex units correct?

Thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 06-11-2012, 07:06 PM
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ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!!!!

Now the question is, now how to get it up and what is the fix?

Thank you so much once again


Edit- Crossed the wires and got the window back up
 

Last edited by TwistedC; 06-11-2012 at 07:26 PM.
  #5  
Old 06-11-2012, 07:27 PM
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Got your pm.....sorry should have posted the "up"

A10 to A12 and A11 to A1 should make it go up.

Give me a mintue....and I'll be back

EDIT2: I see you edited while I was responding.
 
  #6  
Old 06-11-2012, 09:07 PM
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So now that we see the window motor is not shot, any idea as to what would cause the switches not to work from the driver door? even with a brand new switch cluster..

Colton (son) told me earlier, that the LR window went down by itself also? He reached in the back and had to roll it up

Could this all just be a grounding issue?
I hate electrical problems..LOL
 
  #7  
Old 06-11-2012, 10:22 PM
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And if you can believe this....I HATE electrical issues as well, consider myself a "newbie" with them.

Do you have a volt meter? The "jump" was a quick and dirty test. I'm "thinking" you have a bad ground or a bad switch, yes I know you replaced it but the jumping of the wires, what the switch does, leads me towards this.....someone might chime in with more info.
 
  #8  
Old 06-12-2012, 06:45 PM
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Yes I have a volt meter that work gives us( time warner cable), but never been very good with them..I can do the basics of AC,DC, Ohms,etc...
However, knowing what to look for and test is the trick with me..

I have tried to use it once before on the car and never really got anywhere. Any time i would try to "read" something, it was like i just touched the 2 leads together, acting like it was just shorting out..

I can swing by a junkyard and try to snag a switch if they have any around..I would rather do that, then to pick one up from Honda again...
 
  #9  
Old 06-12-2012, 07:39 PM
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If the bone yard has one for cheap then I would do that.

The tests for the windows based upon what you have told us so far would be checking for continuity to ground - resistance. And then check for voltage readings - 12v....like you touched the leads to the battery and read something ~ 12.5v.

Could be something in the wires....but based upon the fact you jump the wires and the window worked.....I'm with the switch, yet I find it hard to believe the new one is bad, so yes, I'm a bit confused on this one.

I can give the "other" jumps to make the rest of the windows go down - and up this time - if needed.

Please let us know what you find and what works out in the end......too many never come back and we never know

EDIT: Did I tell you...I hate electrial issues...again.
 

Last edited by poorman212; 06-12-2012 at 07:47 PM.
  #10  
Old 06-13-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212 View Post
If the bone yard has one for cheap then I would do that.


Please let us know what you find and what works out in the end......too many never come back and we never know

EDIT: Did I tell you...I hate electrial issues...again.
I will have to take a look around the junkyards then, since i have the next 2 days off...But I will let you know the problem in the end..It's the least I could do for the help

BTW- I hate electrical issues also....i mean i really hate them
 

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