I have a 95 accord with the 2.2 non vtec motor and im having troubles with the acceleration on it and sometimes the idle... Whenever i have the vehicle running it goes pretty smoothly for the most part but when i give it gas at about 1100-1500 rpm it will kinda bog down and about cut off... But if i kinda give the gas pedal a little kick it will go right through it with no problem... the car drives great on the road after 1500 rpm and it dont stall out or putter... These are some problems i was suggested.
Problem #1 - I could have a bad Fuel injector.
Problem #2 - I could have a bad temp. sensor (not coolant sensor)
Problem #3 - (highly Unlikely) I could have burnt rings
Problem #4 - I could have bad engine timing (btw timing belt and all gears line up properly with the timing marks)
Problem #5 - I could have missing or wrongly placed Vacuum lines.

I have already checked most of the vacuum lines but there are still some odd things like one open port coming off the intake plenum. There is one thing that kinda makes me wonder too... i do have a cold air intake on it but when i give it alot of gas the temp gauge goes way down then back up which seems a little drastic too me... but that is as much as i could think of off the top of my head... if you have any suggestions or something please let me know... thanks

 

A cold air intake shouldn't change the coolant temperature like that. A thermostat stuck open sounds like a possible cause.

Maybe replace the thermostat with an oem one from the dealership.

 

Well the thermostat does read properly i havent had any over heating like that and im just trying to find the problem with the acceleration... but i have been told also try a new CAI because it could be a malfunction in the design with that one but that seems a little unlikely... But i will check out the thermostat still because that does make me worry a little because the prior owner never did a block clean or radiator flush... ive done the block clean and replaced all spark plugs and to add to the problem it wouldnt idle before i did the block clean it would just turn on putter a little and than cut off but since the block and fuel injection clean it helped a little but still cant get it to gradually accelerate between 1100 n 1500 rpm

 

your cai should be fine, its hard to screw up metal and there all the same in the cone dirty ?

 

the cone filter is clean there is no build up or anything... im thinking of pulling it off to have direct flow to the motor for a test to see how the motor holds up without that filter because its an APC brand and i dont trust american products on an import

 

Not knowing the mileage and the maintenance of the car - up to date? - that'll include timing belt replacement - hence timing is ok - I am thinking fuel pressure.
I had this problem with my car and it turned out the fuel pressure regulator was releasing .5-1psi less than normal. High speed driving was ok, the only obvious problem was stumbling around 1K.

 

The thermostat is designed to maintain the proper coolant temperature. It sounds like your temperature gauge is working properly, but maybe the thermostat is not. The thermostat should close when you accelerate to prevent a drop in the coolant temperature.

When the temperature of the coolant drops below a set limit, the computer will go into open loop mode (like when the car is warming up). It will use more fuel.

My accord has that too. It is the bottom port on the driver's side of the intake, right? There should be a rubber cap on to prevent air from entering.

 

Well i replaced the temperature sending unit today... the old one was caked with oil and the top fell off and it helped my car... for the first few minutes than it started idling way to low... ok so on the three ports on the driver side... my middle one goes to the, i believe, vapor canister the smaller of the two canisters... and my top port is also blocked... where should that one lead to... by the way i have code 3 (i think cant remember) popping up on the check engine light BUT my map sensor is brand new... that is dealing with the vacuum so i would think that one line might be killing me


Also i have noticed i filled the tank up to a little over half full and didnt drive since than and from going out there every other day and letting it run i've lost alot of gas... im sitting on E mind you ive only ran it for about 15 minutes Max each time... Could that be dealing with the MAP or Fuel... its hard to determine

 

Just to be clear. The temperature sending unit has one wire going to it and its only job is to run the gauge in your car. The coolant temperature sensor has two wires going to it, and it gives the computer the temperature data to manage the engine.

The sending unit will not cause your car to run bad. Your gauge on the dash will not work properly.

You can download a 94 shop manual from the Online Manuals thread in the DIY section. The spoon site has a manuals link. Page 11-10 has a vacuum diagram. The diagram is a bit confusing, because it shows a f22b2 (your engine) and a f22b5 (European?). I posted a pic from my shop manual that only shows your engine.

 

By the diagram, that port goes to the vacuum-operated engine mount if you have an auto tranny. Capped for a manual tranny. Stuck never said which?