Accord died on me this past weekend and seems to have a fuel issue. This is the troubleshooting I have done to get her back running, let me know if I am missing something. I have another accord that is running, 95 4-cylinder with the same components, so parts are available.

-Battery is healthy, I keep it on a battery tender since car turned off.
-Checked for codes, non stored.
-Air filter clean
-Swapped distributor with known working distributor.
-Swapped ignition coil with known working ignition coil.
-Swapped main relay with known working relay.
-Swapped ecu with known working ecu.
-Swapped Resistor box with known working resistor box. Also checked for 12v at resistor box, 12v present.
-Cleaned fuel rail.
-Spark present on all four wires. Healthy spark. All wires and injector wire are healthy.
-#1 injector shows 12v on crank, others show nothing. which I thought was weird. Used a multi-meter since I didn't have a pulse node.
-Cleaned ground point on intake manifold.
-Removed spark plugs after cranking, no gas reaching cylinder. Spark plugs look normal.
-Timing belt still attached, changed 20,000 miles ago. Cranks like normal.
-No smell of fuel in all four cylinders.
-Fuel pump primes when key in ignition.
-Removed bango bolt at fuel rail and fuel comes out when in ON position from fuel rail.

Searched a couple of forums and seems I have ran out of ideas and things to try. I didn't check for fuel pressure since fuel comes out when in ON position. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions please let me know.

 

Did you check your injectors? I mean, you can obviously test the voltage in them, but can you see them actually working? Do they let fuel pass through them? Check that out

 

What wire color on the injectors were you testing? What did you use as your ground?

 

I did not check them individually but checked voltage upon crank and #1 is the only one with voltage. I will remove them and test individually. Also not that when I am cranking, none are releasing fluid. I confirmed by cranking and smelling the spark plug tube after removing the plug after crank. No gas on plugs.

 

I used the chassis ground and the #1 injector wire color was red/black.

 

You don't need to crank the engine to get voltage, because all injectors get voltage when the key is in the II position. Check the red/blk wire on each injector and use chassis ground when testing. The engine computer opens the fuel injectors by grounding the other color wire on each injector. I'd avoid testing the ground side of the injectors, because that is connected directly to the PCM.

Another item to note is that the electrical connector for the injector resistor box has an identical connector nearby that you can easily swap. The connector that plugs into the resistor box should have 4 red/blk wires and a red wire. Make sure those identical connectors did not get switched.

 

More troubleshooting yesterday. Checked the ohms of the injectors and they were all at 2.5 ohms. Removed the injector rail, placed car in II position and they squirted fuel. So seems its not a fuel issue. I will check the timing belt this weekend. It did seem tight when checked from the upper cover but will make sure it didn't skip teeth and everything lines up correctly. Any other suggestions will be appreciated.

 

Did the injectors squirt fuel in the II position, or were the injectors removed?

Did you repeat the voltage test on the red/blk wire to each injector?

 

Voltage tested the injectors today yielded 15v on each injector. How is that? I used chassis ground from the radiator support.

 

15V seems high without the engine running. You may want to test the voltage across the battery terminals to see if you meter reads it as 12.6 or 15. Unless your battery is hooked up to a charger.

Technically you haven't verified fuel. You might want to try starting the engine while spraying starting fluid into the intake. If the engine runs (even poorly) then fuel deliver is the issue. You may want to get a loaner fuel pressure tester from a parts store. Hopefully the kit has an adapter that will fit on your fuel rail to actually test the fuel pressure.