I attack from top with the front lifted. I you have the two bolts from bottom and two at top. Then take fan out loosening the upper radiator hose. If you can change it yourself then take it to get it filled. It will save you a couple hundred

 

I guess I could pay the $40 for a vacuum and refill, but spend a day between them . It's a shame that I just had this done three weeks ago. Are the other parts of the kit from the compressor itself pretty obvious to swap out?

 

Yes it is a no brainer. Empty the oil that is in the compressor put the oil in that is provided in kit. Change the orings they are noticeably different. Then put back together. I also change out the Schrader valves to make sure a leak doesn't happen there since the car is older

 

If you can do minor things in a car like brakes and oil you will have no problem swapping out your compressor. Just make sure you following the belled procedure for your coolant if you spill all that is in the hose. But you shouldn't introduce any air any the system by removing the upper hose. Top off before starting the car back up

 

You asked about checking the wire...

There's a wire plugged into the compressor - unplug it or better yet try to back-probe the connector so you can measure with a multi-meter while it's still plugged in.

With the engine running, switch on the AC. That wire should go to battery voltage. If it doesn't, then the problem is somewhere else in the car, not the compressor.

Another way...
Engine turned off & cool enough to deal with. Remove the drive belt. The compressor pulley should spin freely on the compressor.
Get some wire, and connect from the positive battery post to the compressor-side of that wire. This should cause the clutch to make a click that you can hear, and now the pulley should spin but with some difficulty because you're turning the actual compressor.

I'll leave you to decide which method is easier for you. Let us know the result so you don't change the compressor when the real problem is somewhere in the car's wiring harness...

 

Seanjordan20: Thanks.

JimBlake: Thanks, I'll attack tomorrow after breakfast, and less coffee than usual .

 

How would you check the wire to the clutch to ensure you are getting voltage at the clutch? Can this be done at the relay by bypassing the load connectors?

 

JimBlake: Happy Friday. Off the passenger-side cooling fan power nexus runs a single cable to a plug; the other side of the plug runs to the compressor (there's no plug at the compressor; the wire simply enters the housing between the compressor pulley and body). When the A/C is on there's 12-14V at the plug; when the A/C is off there's 0V at the plug. So it seems the compressor is receiving power. I watched the video you linked earlier and tried the trick to get the clutch to engage by pressing on the side (by removing the front, passenger-side tire) if there's an air gap issue, but nothing happened. The car has not quite 254,000 miles, and the compressor looks battered and is covered with a patina of black gunk while the compressor clutch housing is a rather rusty mess. Do you reckon that it's most likely the compressor or clutch has failed, or are there other viable options to check? Thanks.

 

I have done many cars and it is unlikely power not getting to the compressor. I am 100% sure of that. Your compressor or clutch is dead. It is the original compressor time to change it.

 

Yes, if that wire is getting power when you switch on the AC; then the clutch/compressor isn't working.