I edited my post. Should proof-read more.

I just find it strange that you get spark and the starting fluid test doesn't help start the car.

Have you done a compression test on each cylinder?

The 96 is OBD-2 so a scanner would give a little bit better detail on error codes. For example a code you'd get by jumpering the connector might lump together 2 or 3 OBD-2 codes.

But if there's NO codes stored by the jumpering method, there will also be no errors by the OBD-2 scanner.

If you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds when first turning the key ON, then the main relay would be OK. If you remelt the solder on the main relay, that's a freebie & I wouldn't blame you for doing that just to rule it out.

I've also told people to get the normal maintenance up-to-date because that can confuse the diagnosing process. Don't take any flak for that.

And... prime the fuel lines by turning the key to ON (not START) a few times. The pump runs for 2 seconds each time.

main relay fix
 

Hey,my problem was not startin when it was hot out,i took hondadude's advice, and re soldered all the joints on the main relay,i went outside yesterday,it was 95 degrees out,and it fired right up,u might want to try that before u spend any more money...Dave ps, thanks honda dude

Guys,

I'll try the timing light again tomorrow morning. Of course, this morning she parked in the garage and it started right up..

The fuel pump is definitely turning on for 2 seconds every time. Like I said in one of those posts, the new pump is louder than the old one so it's easy to hear with the radio/AC off.

I've tried the starting fluid/carb cleaner multiple times with no luck at all. Not even a burp. Would this eliminate the fuel filter or not?

I will try the compression test as I do have my tester here at the house with me but I may not be able to do it til this weekend. Should I only do the test when it's not starting or would it make a difference to do it in the afternoon when she comes home from work?

And the main relay fix...is the one where you re-solder the joints on the one that is right up under the steering column(96 accord 4 cyl) behind the cruise control box or something?

I think it may just be time to sell the car and let someone else know that it just won't start before 10 am. lol

What did the ECT sensor test show? If it is like my 95 EX 4 cyl, gray two wire connector under dist. Switch is screwed into the head....if not how much are you asking and what part of the country are you in?

I didn't check the ECT sensor? Do I have to remove the distributor to get to it?

What is the test to do?

I'm in Northern CA

The MFR is in a different location than the 90-93 accords.

Take a look at the bottom of this site where it shows the 94 location (same as your 96) http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

Here is how to resolder it: http://techauto.awardspace.com/solutions.html

When you spray the starting fluid in, do you have the throttle plate wide open?

I've seen the ECT sensor give hard/no start when cold before. Rare but it does happen. Again, should be close to my 95, you can see the gray two wire connector below the dist going into the head. Should not have to remove or move the dist to get to it. I admit I've got a small frame so getting my hand under there is not an issue....ever tried to start on old car (carb) in cold temps without a choke??? Here is one, a reach meaning I've never done it, when cold can you hold the gas open (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full)and help it get to started, then pedal it to keep it going?
Well, sorry, I'm on the other coast so unless you are going to "give it away" I'd have to pass.