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Is This A Bad CV Joint?

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:48 PM
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Default Is This A Bad CV Joint?

On the 93 Accord that I'm working on, there is a pronounced noise from the right side front during turns. I've heard CV joint symptoms described as "clicking".

This is a click on steroids. It's rhythmic and you can feel it as well as hear it. It is in relation to wheel rotation speed. It does it consistently, although it seems NOT to do it if my foot is on the brake.

Something in the brakes? Wheel bearing? Or CV joint?

I'm fairly new to front wheel drive, so any tips or ideas would be really appreciated.
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:57 PM
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the 2 CV joints that I've had / seen wear out both had the clicking at low - parking lot - speeds on tight turns.
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:01 PM
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Sounds the same. Slow speed turns yup. Pretty loud right? I took a call today while I was on a road test with it and the person on the other end said "What's that noise?".
 

Last edited by scoostraw; 05-14-2013 at 08:11 PM.
  #4  
Old 05-14-2013, 10:00 PM
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Default 94 accord cv joint

I swapped both axles in 98 accord with lifetime warranty part from local autozone store. I think they were $90 each. To swap you might need an impact gun to remove the axle main bolt. I think it's 36mm socket. I can swap out 1 side in < half hour but again you need to get that axle nut loose.
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wudwork
I swapped both axles in 98 accord with lifetime warranty part from local autozone store. I think they were $90 each. To swap you might need an impact gun to remove the axle main bolt. I think it's 36mm socket. I can swap out 1 side in < half hour but again you need to get that axle nut loose.
Mine is a 93.

Will the inner boot fit thru the wishbone on a 93?
 
  #6  
Old 05-15-2013, 11:04 AM
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No it will not fit through I always disconnect the lower bal joint and the wish bone when doing CV swaps. And yes its a 36 mm socket on the spindle nut
 
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by phantomgrey92
No it will not fit through I always disconnect the lower bal joint and the wish bone when doing CV swaps. And yes its a 36 mm socket on the spindle nut
I'm curious why you disconnect the wishbone rather than separate the inner joint on the axle and slip it thru that way? I've been planning to do it this way.

Thanks re. the spindle nut size. I have a socket on order. What procedure do you use to re-torque the spindle nut when re-assembling?
 
  #8  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:09 PM
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the autozone unit is 1 piece bro, you really gonna waste your time taking it apart? its a 10 minute job to swap a cv
 
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Hamster108
the autozone unit is 1 piece bro, you really gonna waste your time taking it apart? its a 10 minute job to swap a cv
As long as you can get the control arm bolt out, yes. This is what I'm referring to:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...acement-54293/
 
  #10  
Old 05-17-2013, 06:57 AM
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Default CV joint replace

Have a look underneath before you do anything. If its all rusted out, its gonna take some time. When at Autozone, rent? the "Ball Joint Separator" tool. There are a few sizes, get them both as I don't recall exactly which one worked best. I am a shadetree mechanic, in training, here is what I did.

1. Get the spindle nut loose while tire is still on.
2. Jack up car.
3. Remove tire then spindle nut.
4. Remove the cotter pin from castle nut. That's the lowest nut right (closest to ground) behind the brake disc.
5. Remove the castle nut.
6. Use ball joint separator tool to remove the arm that is held in place by the castle nut. When you get that arm off, the wheel hub is able to swing in and out, but is still held up.
7. Remove the wishbone fork that is holding the wheel hub up. WHen done, the wheel hub is wobbly.
8. Pull the wheel hub out and that end of axle will come right out.
9. I used a dull screwdriver to wedge the tranny end of axle out. I don't think this was smart as its easy to damage the seal in tranny, but I was not sure of an easier way. No, I did not have any tranny fluid leak out the open hole.
10. Insert the new axle very carefully into tranny. It requires zero force to get 99% of the way in. Once there, I used my cheapo "dead blow" mallet to TAP the other end of axle and pop the axle into tranny. You will hear a distinct click sound that confirms the tranny end has snapped in final position.
11. Rebuild the rest.
12. I cannot recall how much I torqued the spindle nut, but best I can recall I tightened it enough to reveal the same amount of exposed thread on axle then pinged it there.

Again, from jacking up car to removing jack took about 45 minutes for the first one and < for the other side.

As others have commented, don't waste your time rebuilding a CV axle or breaking it down. That grease sticks to EVERYTHING and is a HUGE mess. Its so much easier and much cleaner to just swap them out. I had a bad one from AutoZone and had to swap that out within a month. So what, it cost me 2 trips to store and a half hour. Not bad for $80.

PS: I am sure you saw the great write up of the axle replacement by the guy in Florida where rust really gave him a challenge? Its near top of DIY forum.

Best of luck.
 


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