I've got a vibration in the frontthat becomes more prevalent in third thru fifth gears (manual tranny) while I'm accelerating (or holding it steady). When I let off the gas, the vibration goes away (for the most part). I may be WAY off, and I'm just guessing, but could it be a CV joint, warped rotor, or bearing?? I've had both half axles replaced in the last year or two.

My main constraint isthat I live in an apartment, so space is a problem. Management typically frowns on people working on cars in the parking lot. I also don't have a good means of pulling the hub to get to the rotors, if that's the problem (although I can probably rent the hub puller from Auto Zone). In addition, I'm working mandatory overtime at the moment, so finding the time to getinto it is a problem. Heck, I've considered taking a weekend off and converting the rotors to the over-the-hub design.

I just want to get a few suggestions or ideas before I bite the bullet and take her into the garage. Usually, I prefer to work on it myself, but I may not have that option this time around. Any ideas??

Thanks SO much!!!

Ben

 

Converting from Trapped Rotors to Over the Hub design, you are the first person I have heard mention this, do you have more info.

Jack it up and use jack stands for safety, shake the inner CV Joints and see how they feel, if one is looser than the other, I would say its bad. Spin the tires by hand and listen for brake pad to rotor rubbing, this will by your warped rotor evidence. Inspect for worn tie rods, tie rod ends, ball joints, torn dust boots on these items, other suspension components.

More help when you need it.

 

rev up the engine in neutral and keep it at a constant rpm. Does it idle then?
If its not there when hes not accelerating, wouldnt that mean that its the engine, not the transmission?


Mandatory overtime?
quit that crap....

someone should make like a big garage with a bunch of areas that you can like rent for a day really cheap to fix your car...
that would be a good idea.

 

Most military bases have hobby shops, but to do this downtown for you would require tons of insurance.

 

make people sign a waiver saying if their car falls on em its not my fault.

 

LOL... all good ideas =)

Okay, I took it in to get aligned, and they told me my right upper balljoint was shot, and that was most likely causing the vibration. I ordered a front-end suspension kit off eBay for $130 shipped, and replaced the balljoint. The kit has all the balljoints, tie rod ends, and sway bar links.

I had the tires balanced again at Wal-Mart, just to be sure. I wasn't100% positive they balanced the tires when they rotated them a month or two back. I hadn't touched the rear wheels, but in the parking lot, I noticed I was missing a lug nut on the right rear, and another lug nut was loose.

After the balance,I had it aligned. The vibration is still there, although not as bad. I may replace the other upper balljoint and tie rod ends just for the hell of it.Both CV axles should be good, as I've had both replaced in the last three years.

I'm still at a loss. The vibration seems worse after driving for a few minutes, ceases as soon as I let off the gas or put the clutch in, and comes and goes. Any other suggestions or toubleshooting/diagnosis ideas?

Thx!

 

Have you by chance checked your tranny fluid recently?

Does it make the noise/vibrate in neutral at a stand still?

 

Transmission fluid level is good, and there's no vibration when it's in neutral. Any time I engage the clutch or coast, the vibration goes away.

 

I would go for even a motor/tranny mount being bad, it only does it in acceleration mode then stops when stress is off the engine. could also be a bad tire, such as a belt breaking inside it.