Battery- Alternator Issue
#1
Battery- Alternator Issue
my 1995 Honda Accord LX 2.7L. so the battery light went on but very faded. I took the car to my mechanic, he tested the battery and Alternator and the battery was bad. took the car to Advanced Auto when I bought the Die Hard Gold 2 years ago and he tested it and it was bad. He put in a new battery at no cost, which is great. took the car back to my mechanic and he tested everything again and the Alternator looked ok, but the faded battery light was still on. so im driving home and within a couple hundred yards of home the battery light went off. any advice here is appreciated. the alternator was changed with a rebuilt from Advanced Auto on 4-2019. now that I have a new battery do you recommend a new Alternator and if so should I spend the extra money and get the Denso?
the Denso is re manufactured. I can get a new one made by WAI GLOBAL. I can also get a REMY re manufactured OE Manufacturer: Mitsubishi. not sure what to do.
so much thanks!
bt
the Denso is re manufactured. I can get a new one made by WAI GLOBAL. I can also get a REMY re manufactured OE Manufacturer: Mitsubishi. not sure what to do.
so much thanks!
bt
Last edited by btartus; 06-20-2023 at 05:04 PM.
#2
Not sure if you are doing any DIY work/testing on the car. I'd suggest testing the voltage drop across the battery cables when the engine is running. Simple test. Set your volt meter to voltage. Put the meter on the + battery post and on the large alternator post when the engine is running. You should see <0.5V across that cable. Repeat on all cables from both battery posts.
Another item to quickly test is to use white out or a paint pen and mark a line from the center of the crank pulley out to an edge. The crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer) is really two metal discs glued together with rubber. If the rubber is detached, the outer pulley won't spin with the inner pulley and not drive your alternator. Run the engine for a bit and see if you still have a straight line.
Another item to quickly test is to use white out or a paint pen and mark a line from the center of the crank pulley out to an edge. The crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer) is really two metal discs glued together with rubber. If the rubber is detached, the outer pulley won't spin with the inner pulley and not drive your alternator. Run the engine for a bit and see if you still have a straight line.
#4
Not sure if you are doing any DIY work/testing on the car. I'd suggest testing the voltage drop across the battery cables when the engine is running. Simple test. Set your volt meter to voltage. Put the meter on the + battery post and on the large alternator post when the engine is running. You should see <0.5V across that cable. Repeat on all cables from both battery posts.
Another item to quickly test is to use white out or a paint pen and mark a line from the center of the crank pulley out to an edge. The crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer) is really two metal discs glued together with rubber. If the rubber is detached, the outer pulley won't spin with the inner pulley and not drive your alternator. Run the engine for a bit and see if you still have a straight line.
Another item to quickly test is to use white out or a paint pen and mark a line from the center of the crank pulley out to an edge. The crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer) is really two metal discs glued together with rubber. If the rubber is detached, the outer pulley won't spin with the inner pulley and not drive your alternator. Run the engine for a bit and see if you still have a straight line.
thanks again for your help! much appreciated.
bt
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
xbolloxx
General Tech Help
14
12-21-2011 10:19 AM