So, my heater hose blew last night -- the one that runs out of the engine, beneath the distributor, and to the heater valve. Do I need to pull the distributor to replace this stupid hose? I can't see how else I can get in there to remove the hose clamp and pull the hose off with the distributor in place. I hope this is not the case, but I don't see any other way. Please advise. Thanks

 

If it has the original OEM squeeze type hose clamps, get a long reach needle nose pliers (which are about a foot long) to remove it. You can usually find the long reach pliers at Harbor Freight, Orchard Hardware Supply (if you have them), etc. If it is the worm type clamp, use a socket with an extension or a long screwdriver.

 

And then how do you get the hose on and off the barb with the wiring harness where it is without being able to get your hands in there??

 

Use a utility blade to make some length wise cuts along the hose and peel it off. Just be careful making the cuts. To put it back on, just have to kind of snake in and on.

One guy I know, attached a blade to a long handle to reach into tight areas to make cuts on hoses. It kind of looks like a long home-made shank.

 

Got it. Thanks for the help. Now to find some long needle-nose pliers.

 

For me it was easier just to take the 10 mins to remove the air box and ignition coil (2 screws in bracket) and set them out of the way. After that it takes all of 5 mins to change the hose. If the hose is stuck you can use a set of pliers to put around the hose and twist to break free (be sure not to mash hard as it will smash the inlet to heater core). To make the new hose go on easier if needed use a dab of grease. Just another idea. Hope it helps.

 

If you don't know how to remove the air intake duct, here's the procedure. I've done this dozens of times. It takes about 5 mins once you learn.

1) loosen the hose clamp on the duct at the throttle body entrance and loosen all air filter box hold down bolts (4)
2) release vacuum lines and wiring harness from duct guide/supports at throttle body entrance. Just remove them from duct, not disconnect.
3) Pull PCV air intake metal tube end out of the intake duct. There's enough flexibility in hose to allow this to pull directly out and store out of way.
4) Loosen hose clamp on resonanting chamber underneath duct. A 6" flexible extension on ratchet screwdriver w/ 1/4" drive and a 10mm socket make this easy.
5) Separate the resonating chamber from the duct.
6) Pull the intake duct from throttle body entrance.
7) lift upper air filter cover w/ intake duct

Be careful when splitting the heater hose end to avoid damaging the valve stub end. There may be enough slack to allow the hose to be shortened and re-used.

Lube the intake duct rubber interior that mates to the resonating chamber to ease mating the two back together.

good luck

 

And if you mark the distributor so it can be put back in exactly the same position, then it's not that horrible to remove the distributor.

 

Alright, so here's the deal. I removed the air intake snorkel from the throttle body (and unhooked the associated vacuum hoses and wires. I then pulled the distributor and replaced the hose. I put everything back together, and the car started up just fine. I left the cap off of the radiator and began to lower the car off of the jack stands I had put it on to save my back. Just as the right side hit the ground, the car started pulsing at idle. I shut it off, dropped the other side, and checked to make sure I had put everything back together properly. Everything looks fine. Every time I start the car, though, it runs fine for a second and then begins pulsing at idle again. I have no idea what I did.

 

It may be because of low coolant level (make sure you fully topped the system w/ coolant by bleeding air) or vacuum line pulled off. Make sure you reconnected the PCV air intake. Check all your work.

Occasionally, this happens on Accords. It's not anything to get excited about and will likely disappear as car warms if nothing is wrong. Usually indicates the throttle plate and idle air control valve needs a good cleaning.

good luck