"Reflash" usually means something similar to reprogramming. What you did by leaving the battery disconnected is just resetting (re-booting) which is good.

 

Continuity means that a wire is intact between two points. So continuity to ground at pin A, means the wire is intact between pin A and ground. Continuity between pin A and pin B means the wire is intact between those two pins.

A digital volt meter usually has a setting where you get a sound when there is continuity and no sound when there is no continuity. You can use the resistance setting where zero or low resistance between the two points means you have continuity where infinite or very high resistance means you do not have continuity. What kind of volt meter are you using?

 

I'm using a Fluke RMS multimeter. I guess I wasn't very clear when I said I needed help testing the switch. I understand how to check for continuity, and I know when I either have it or don't have it. I guess what I meant was how do I run the meter leads? Do I test the harness side of the connector, the switch side, or both? Where the manual shows the terminal numbering, is that the harness or switch side?

 

What component are you testing?

 

I'm trying to test the transmission range switch. I was testing the harness side of the connector.

 

Now we're getting some weird/harsh shifting going on. The cruise control turned off by itself this afternoon while driving at a steady speed, and just a little bit ago the car jerked on acceleration like a very hard shift. Both events happened a few minutes after startup. Would the bad range sensor would do this too?

Also, the TCC has a delayed engagement when cold. Is that normal or could the bad sensor be a factor?

 

Just got to look at the testing procedure.

If you are looking at 14-138, then the testing will be on the switch side of the connector. If you are doing the diagnostic around page 14-60s, then you will likely be on the wire harness side.

You can usually tell, because one of the two options after that specific step in the testwill tell you to repair the wire between the switch and G101, for example. That means that you are on the wire harness side doing the testing.

 

So if the arrow in the drawing is pointing to the harness side of the connector, is the terminal diagram what you would see if you were looking into that end, so that if I was testing the switch side I would test opposite of what the terminal diagram shows? Hope that makes sense.

 

I can't remember if the diagram means you are looking at the pin side of the connector or the wire side of the connector.

On page 14-138, the plug is not symmetrical, so the plastic tab on the plug below wire #10 should help you identify the wires.

 

Ran the test (turns out I was doing it right the first time) and everything checked out good. I took the switch off, took it apart and cleaned it, regreased it, and put it back in. Let's see what happens...